Converting RV Lights to LEDs – Part 6: Security, Entry & Reading Lights

TheRVgeeks LED Conversion 18 Comments

It’s amazing how many lightbulbs there are in an RV. Just when we think we’ve pretty much completed our conversion to LEDs, we realize that there are still more that we want to do. So we’ve continued to order more bulbs and we’re sure there are still more left!

This time, we’re replacing our security, step well and reading lights. Of course LEDs are famous for their energy efficiency, and these are no exception. But sometimes other factors are even more important than power consumption. Heat output, for example. You’d think that a simple reading light wouldn’t draw enough power or produce enough heat to matter very much. Then you decide to read a book in bed on a sultry summer night and realize that the heat pouring off it is a big deal, even if you have plenty of juice in your house battery bank to power it.

Other bulbs, like the incandescent light in our step well, aren’t really a big problem from a heat or power perspective. But we’re upgrading some lights just because we hate leaving them out of the overall LED conversion! And since all those power-hungry little bulbs can add up, the fewer incandescent, halogen and fluorescent bulbs we have left on board, the lower our overall power draw. Now, whether we’re outside using the security lights, walking into the rig, or reading a book, we won’t be using more power, or generating more heat, than necessary.


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Comments 18

  1. Gee, almost wish my coach hadn’t come with LED’s :) But, when replacements are needed I know where to go!

    As always thanks guys
    Tracy

  2. Have upgraded our Tiffin RV light bulbs to LED lights from M4 but I have noticed that our motor home panel switch lights give off a fair amount of heat (switches for steps, stairwell lights etc. etc.), these show a small red light when switched on. Do you know if there are LED bulbs for these switches?

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Paul! We’re going to defer to our favorite LED expert on this one: Steve at M4. We’ll drop him a note and ask him to stop by and reply to your question, so that everyone can see a much better answer than we could provide! Stay tuned.

    2. Hey Paul,

      Thanks for the support!

      As you have noticed, there are some switches with built in indicator lights, and if they are incandescent they can run hot. Most switches on the market now utilize LEDs in that application to consume less power, and they are less prone to burnout. These lights are unfortunately not made to be replaced on any one I have seen, the switch is replaced typically as a whole. Granted I am sure I have not seen every switch out there.

      The good news is that those lamps are very tiny, so they don’t consume too much power. It is not the same as your main lighting because their job is only to light the switch. I wouldn’t worry about swapping the entire switch unless you are doing it after a burn out and really like the indicator light.

      I hope this helps,
      Steve at M4

      1. Post
        Author

        If anyone wonders why we’re so enthusiastic about M4 (besides the great bulbs), this is a typical example of how Steve runs his business. He was just as responsive and helpful when we made our original (very small) purchase, and has well earned his reputation as the go-to guy for LEDs. Thanks Steve.

  3. our 2000 Fleetwood discovery 37g has decided for the living room slide to move out only about 1 ft. I have made sure it is level but still will not go out. Can hear motor running but will stop just like as it is all the way out.

    1. Chances are your motor is failing. I have a 2001 Discovery and went through this, and when you order a new motor, you will notice that there have been several revisions by the manufacture. The new motors are “underdrive” motors with lower gearing. They go in and out slower, but they have more torque to handle the size of the slideout.

      In an emergency situation, always remember the slide can be put in manually from below with a big ratchet wrench. Swapping the motor is easy too (other than crawling under the slide), the hardest part was changing the electric ends on the replacement motor because they didn’t match the old one. Lube the tracks while you are under there.

      1. Post
        Author

        Sorry we didn’t see your question when you posted it back in June, Grant. I hope you got the problem resolved. If anyone wasn’t already aware of it, you can see that Steve at M4 is a fellow RVer. Probably explains why he takes such good care of us. Thanks for chiming in Steve.

  4. We need LED appliance lights, i.e., refrigerator – convection oven – microwave
    amazing how much heat microwave courtesy light gives off

    1. Post
      Author
      1. Hello, I sent an email to Steve regarding a 120v 50am led replacement for my convection oven hood light, he was not able to help me, not sure if you guys have a convection microwave oven combo but im finding that this is a hard bulb to find in a good led.

        1. Post
          Author

          The light under our microwave is one of the very few we have not converted to LED. But since, by definition, the microwave requires 110 power to work, we’ve never been too concerned about it. It was all of our 12-volt lights that we were most interested in converting. And of course there were tons of them.!

        2. Post
          Author
  5. Another great LED upgrade video! Since watching your original LED upgrade video, I have upgraded all the lights in my RV to LED, as well! Thank you! You guys rock!

    Scott

    1. Post
      Author

      Thanks Scott! Part of the fun for us now is finding miscellaneous lights that we overlooked in our initial conversions, since we started the process by targeting the lights we use most often. Now it’s like a treasure hunt. lol

        1. Post
          Author

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