We returned from a 5-week trip away from the RV to find the drain pipe from the kitchen sinks leaking. Since we’ve already completed the repair, this is just an overview of how the plumbing system is designed to move in and out with the slide-out, not a How-To.

Our kitchen is in a slide-out, and we always wondered how the sink drains connected from the slide-out to the RV. Once we removed the access panel to find the plumbing, we learned how Newmar uses a flexible drain pipe to connect the slide-out plumbing to the RV.

Before you write about it… we know that our front curb-side slide makes huge “snap, crackle, pop” sounds when it runs (the counter and woodwork creaking). It’s done that for years… but it works fine! Just sounds particularly bad on video. lol

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  1. Hi. I was not able to find a section on replacing a jack knife couch with recliners. My door is only 22″ wide and I’m having trouble finding recommendation for recliners or theater seating recliners that can fit through this opening. Can you make any recommendations? Thank you so much.

    1. Hi Val,

      We don’t have a section of our site about replacing furniture… because we’ve never done anything like that on our RV. But you’ve already hit on the one item that is usually the limiting factor in a project like that – getting the furniture in & out! Most RV manufacturers put the furniture in before the assembly of the rest of the RV is complete… so they don’t have the same 22-inch-wide door restriction.

      Couple of thoughts for you:

      (1) Do you have a large window that could be removed and provide a larger opening than your door? That’s an option that we’ve heard of other people using for this kind of task… and when we had our refrigerator replaced with a larger, residential model, the shop removed one side of the windshield to get it in… and the old fridge out!

      (2) Have you been on the forums at iRV2.com? They’re free to join… and free to post on… and are an EXCELLENT resource for these exact kinds of questions. Chances are that someone on there has tackled this exact kind of project (possibly on your exact make & model of RV) and can give you pointers.

      Sorry we can’t be of more help, but hope you can get it done!

  2. Hi folks, had a problem wit the brass rotating fitting on my 2001 Dutch star, it was cracked an I need a new one, new Mar wants 450.00 for one, is there a PVC replacement for this or a used one that anyone would know about, thanks in advance.

    1. Hi Tom. Sorry to hear about your situation. We scoured the web looking for other options, but could not find this part anywhere. Do you by any chance have the part number (from Newmar maybe)? That might help locate other sources. Finding a used one would be great, but not sure how many rigs use such a part, or what the availability of parted-out or junk rigs would be. We’ve heard there may be some RV parts places in Elkhart, IN that might be a good place to start scouting a used one. Sorry we’re not more help on thins one.

  3. Great video – helped as we tackled the repair of the slide out drain line in our “new” ’99 Newmar Dutch Star (we just acquired it and are in the “go through everything” stage). A couple of comments… 1. the slide out drain works thanks to the brass swivel connection that Newmar installed. Well ours was completely frozen and thus the flex line ended up with a kink that eventually cracked through – which is how we found it. We had to remove the line with the brass fitting and work it free, lubricate well, replace missing snap ring (assume it rusted out) and then reassemble. So if you have this type of connection, be sure to keep an eye on that swivel fitting! 2. we learned the hard way that it would have been easier to install the PVC MA into the ABS pipe on the “bottom” and then glue in the flex line – we glued both MAs onto the flex line and the end result was my husband hanging upside down in the opening created by the slide out so he could thread in the MA as I was in the cabinet trying to hold the flex line straight. We got it done but could have been easier!
    Thanks for all the great videos – this is but one that has been very helpful to us newbies.

    1. Hi Tara & Dale! Always great to hear from fellow Newmar owners. We definitely see that particular connection as a weak point. Whenever they put plumbing in a slide-out, it’s got to increase the odds of stuff like this happening. Sounds like you had a challenge on your hands, but great for you working through it successfully. We’ve been in so many situations like that, where we weren’t sure we were going to get to the finish line. But it’s so great when it finally happens! Thanks for the nice comment, and relating your experience. Safe travels.

  4. Great video! I have very much enjoyed your how to videos but I was wondering; as you mentioned, you coach is more than 6 years old. Have you not had any significant repairs – to the engine or chassis for example? I recently purchased a used coach and the PM requirements are pretty daunting. Checking the slack adjusters? for example. I saw where you have the oil changed and you change the fluids on the generator. Do you do the rest of the PM yourself? Thanks

    1. Hi David. Congratulations on your new RV! The only fairly involved chassis/engine repair we’ve ever needed in nearly 14 years was fixing an oil leak that developed fairly high on the engine. That required a week in a Cummins shop, as we’re not diesel mechanics and wouldn’t try working on the internal engine components ourselves. We’ve been lucky other than that.

      As far as maintenance, we do a lot of our own, but have the chassis lubed and the engine oil, oil filter and fuel filter changed at Speedco. But our recent visit there was probably our last time, as they’ve jacked their rates up so high that we might as well just go to a Coach Care location and have it done with other maintenance items that we don’t handle, such as checking the ride height, which is very important, and checking and torquing the CAC clamps on the turbo system.

      The oil change is a big pain, partly due to the volume of oil involved (25 quarts for our ISL), so we bite the bullet and have it done for us. We may reconsider that now that our recent Speedco visit was such a shocker price-wise.

      Your slack adjusters are almost certainly self-adjusting. All you need to do to adjust them is to sit behind the wheel while not moving, and press the brake pedal firmly all the way to the floor and hold it there for a few seconds. That will set your slack adjusters. There is nothing else we do for brakes, other than have the pad thickness checked as part of annual maintenance.

      We do ALL the maintenance on our generator, and we have a series of videos covering everything required for our Onan 7500 Quiet Diesel.

  5. Wrong location I’m sure, but can’t find where you’ve dealt with this subject. Does anyone make real metal tub faucets with diverter valve and connector for handheld shower? Sink faucets are easy, but metal tub faucets just don’t seem to exist. Any insight?

    1. Hi Glenn,

      Good question. We haven’t found any place that offers metal versions of typical RV faucets… but have you looked at regular household plumbing supply locations? The connections are fairly standard, so we’d think a household model would work.

      If you don’t have any luck locating one, you may want to try posting this same question on the forums at iRV2.com. They’re free to join & post to… and there are lots of helpful people on there, one of whom may have found what you’re looking for.

      Sorry we can’t be of more help! But best of luck!

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We're handy RVers, not professional technicians. We're happy with the techniques and products we use, but be sure to confirm that all methods and materials you use are compatible with your equipment and abilities. Regardless of what we recommend, consult a professional if you're unsure about working on your RV. Any task you perform or product you purchase based on any information we provide is strictly at your own risk.

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