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If You Can Choose Between Ducted & Non-Ducted RV AC, Which Is Better?

When you’re shopping for a new (or new-to-you) RV, there are many features and amenities to consider and prioritize. One that’s often overlooked is the choice between ducted vs non-ducted RV AC. RV air conditioning is a pretty important feature for traveling and camping comfortably. Most of us spend a fair amount of time where the weather is warm and sunny. In fact, many RVers travel only in summer. But of course, that’s when it can get the hottest, potentially turning your RV into a sauna.

We’ve posted about air conditioning systems before, including the dual A/C units with heat pumps we had in our old Mountain Aire. We even installed a Micro-Air EasyStart in each one, which is a fantastic device that reduces A/C start-up current by 65% to 75%. This allows two air conditioning units to run off a 30-amp connection… or even a single air conditioner off a small portable generator.

We’ve also posted about specific RV AC units like the Truma Aventa, and 12-volt RV air conditioners (that both cool and blow the air using 12V power).

In this post, we’re looking at another variable to consider in RV cooling systems: Ducted vs non-ducted air conditioning systems. So, let’s take a look at the difference between ducted and ductless AC systems. Is one preferable to the other? And what factors determine which type of air conditioning system you can have?

What’s the Difference Between Ducted and Non-Ducted RV AC?

Essentially, the difference between a non-ducted vs a ducted RV air conditioner is where the cold air blows into the RV.

Non-Ducted RV AC

A non-ducted AC unit simply blows cold air out of the ceiling directly under the AC unit. Most of us have seen those gratings in the ceiling, often referred to as a “Chill Grill.” The return air (warm air) is drawn in from the same area.

With non-ducted RV AC systems, cool air is distributed from this one location in the RV. It’s not too different than a “window air conditioner” in a sticks & bricks house.

Non-ducted AC is the most common type of air conditioning system found in RVs.

Ducted RV AC

Ducted RV AC is considered a higher-end AC system because it allows for the distribution of cool air throughout the entire RV through vents that are located throughout the rig. It’s more like central air conditioning in a traditional home. This type of RV AC system is more common on Class A motorhomes and high-end fifth wheels.

As mentioned above, with non-ducted AC systems the cool air comes into the RV from a single large outlet right below the air conditioner. But with a ducted RV AC system, the cooled air (and warm air if it’s also a heat pump) is blown into ducts that run throughout the RV. This distributes the air more evenly and completely, making it particularly desirable for larger rigs.

A non-ducted RV AC system shown on the left and two types of vents from ducted AC systems shown on the right

On the left is a typical non-ducted RV AC “chill grill” with air flowing into the rig directly below the rooftop A/C unit. On the right are a few of the many round vents in the ceiling of our own rig with ducted A/C.

Note that a system can be fully ducted (output and return air are both ducted) or partially ducted (only the outlet air is ducted, but the return air is drawn in through the vent/grill directly beneath the AC unit). Our new Outdoors RV travel trailer is set up with a partially-ducted system… cold air can be directed out through the ducts, or from the “Chill Grill” right under the rooftop unit, and return air is pulled in from the Chill Grill area.

Also note that with partially ducted air conditioning systems, you may benefit from installing a product like the KoolRV A/C Connect system. This simple device helps to smooth the flow of air coming out of the air conditioner, enabling better air flow to be distributed via the ducts… cooling the RV faster and more effectively.

What Are the Pros and Cons of Ducted vs Non-Ducted RV AC?

There are a few pros and cons of both ducted and non-ducted RV AC systems.

Advantages of Non-Ducted RV AC Systems:

  • Cheaper to install.
  • Little-to-no restriction on the airflow.

Disadvantages of Non-Ducted RV AC Systems:

  • Typically louder/noisier than ducted systems.
  • Hot & cold spots can form due to how the cold air is distributed (or isn’t distributed).

Advantages of Ducted RV AC Systems:

  • Generally quieter operation.
  • Better distribution of the air helps reduce hot and cold spots for more even, comfortable temperatures throughout the RV.

Disadvantages of Ducted RV AC Systems:

  • More complex, and therefore more expensive.
  • Airflow can be reduced due to increased restrictions imposed by ducting (although generally offset by the improved air distribution through the ducts).

The Bottom Line on Ducted vs Non-Ducted RV AC

While ducted AC systems generally provide improved and quieter overall cooling to the entirety of an RV’s interior, they’re usually reserved for larger rigs.

Smaller RVs don’t typically come with ducted AC systems because:

  1. Less space in smaller rigs means leaving out some items, such as ductwork.
  2. Smaller RVs don’t require ducting for adequate cooling.
  3. Ducted systems cost more, so keeping prices down on smaller rigs dictates many manufacturers’ choices.

If you have a large, long RV, as we do, you want cool air (and warm air in the case of heat pumps) distributed evenly all the way from the front of your rig to the rear.

That would be harder to achieve with a non-ducted system blowing cool or warm air out of a grill beneath a single AC unit or heat pump. Or even two chill grills.

So, depending on the size of your RV (or the one you’re looking to buy), the issue of ducted vs non-ducted RV AC may not even be a consideration. (For example, you wouldn’t need a ducted system in a Class B RV… and it wouldn’t come with it anyway.)

But if you’re in the market for a larger rig, consider the pros and cons of ducted vs non-ducted RV AC systems, and see where the balance falls for you!

If you’d like to run one RV A/C unit from a small portable generator, or if you’ve got a 50-amp rig and want to be able to run both of your A/C units at a 30-amp hook-up, consider installing a MicroAir EasyStart on each A/C unit.

We’ve used them ourselves for several years, and they work amazingly well.

For handy RVers, it’s a DIY install. Just follow our video tutorial. We’ve also included a coupon below the video to save you some cash!

Photo of the Micro-Air EasyStart 364 with 2 year warranty, UL listing, and made in the USA
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Run your RV's air conditioner from a small, portable generator OR run two A/C units on a 30-amp connection. By reducing the start-up current needed to get your A/C's compressor running, the EasyStart Breeze keeps you cool!

Watch our EasyStart installation video

Get $25 off each Micro-Air EasyStart Breeze you buy factory direct using the code listed here.

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While you’re at it, you might want to be able to control your RV’s ventilation system from anywhere in the world (including from under the covers), like we do!

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Watch our EasyTouch video

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Gregory

Sunday 1st of June 2025

Just noting a typo where the disadvantage should be for a non ducted system.

Disadvantages of Ducted RV AV Systems Typically louder/noisier than ducted systems. Hot & cold spots can form due to how the cold air is distributed (or isn’t distributed). Advantages of Ducted RV AV Systems Generally quieter operation.

TheRVgeeks

Sunday 1st of June 2025

Thanks for catching that, Gregory... we've updated it now to be correct. Appreciate the help!

Jacquelen Bluejacket

Friday 20th of December 2024

How about a post on de-humidifier??

TheRVgeeks

Saturday 21st of December 2024

How's this, Jacquelen? The Best RV Dehumidifiers: Stop Condensation & Mold!

Lydia

Monday 24th of June 2024

Hi,

I have a BLUETTI EB70S portable power station. Would it power a Coleman Mach A/C Ceiling Assembly; DELUXE CHILLGrille 8430A6332? Its Control Voltage: 12 Volt and Voltage Rating: 120 Volt.

The specs for the BLUETTI: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2954926/Bluetti-Eb70s.html?page=9#manual

Thanks kindly, Lydia

TheRVgeeks

Tuesday 25th of June 2024

Hi Lydia! Good question! Unfortunately, no... we don't think your Bluetti will be able to handle running a rooftop air conditioner. There are two reasons. First, the AC output of the Bluetti is limited to 1,000 Watts... and most rooftop air conditioners require more like 1,200-1,500 Watts to run. Second would be the battery capacity of the Bluetti... it's only about 750 Watt-hours. So even if it could handle running a 1,500 Watt air conditioner, it would only run it for about 30 minutes at most.

Air conditioning (or heating) are very power hungry, so using small portable units like a Bluetti or Jackery really aren't feasible.

Larry

Friday 22nd of December 2023

Went thru 2 travel other branded trailers before finding our 25’ Airstream with ducted heat and AC. We can FINALLY hear the TV and music and play cards or board games, even sleep, without the incessant drone high decimal level of un-ducted.

Jamie

Friday 23rd of December 2022

One other disadvantage of a ducted system is when the cold air is going through the ducts in the attic it is being warmed making it less efficient. Often ducted systems can’t keep up with really hot days like a non ducted system.

Jim

Thursday 18th of December 2025

@Virginia, we just pull off the cool air grill on our ducted system and put plastic wrap over it to close off the cold air. Then there’s more cold air to go where we want it. On hot nights, we close off all the cold air outlets except for those in our bedroom. That makes sleeping nice and cool!

Virginia

Sunday 24th of December 2023

@Jamie, I was wondering abut this very situation. Our 5th wheel has no shade. Southeastern Ontario. Summer of 2023 was a real stinker and we found we had to use fans in addition to the ducted air con. Next year, I will try to get the cool air to just flow through directly from the vent located beside the filter grill (ceiling air con). Wondering if there's a way to block off the other ducts running through ceiling or an actual switch? I'll take a look. Thanks.

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