Some RV repairs can be temporarily put on hold, but an RV roof repair is NOT one of them. Failing to repair damage to your RV’s roof can cause a frustrating and expensive set of circumstances that will only get worse with time. Because roof repair is such a critical piece of RV maintenance, we’re sharing some important tips for finding and repairing RV roof holes. Let’s get started!
How Can Your RV Roof Get Holes?
Unless your RV is stored indoors, your RV’s roof is constantly exposed to varying climates and weather conditions. The ever-changing environment can cause caulking and seals to expand and contract repeatedly, which can eventually lead to holes, cracks, or gaps in the roof.
Holes can also occur when you’re on the move. A tree branch might scrape and puncture the rooftop if you were to underestimate the height of a tree limb, for instance. This type of accident can occur easily and cause significant damage to an RV’s roof.
RV roofs can be damaged by falling limbs or branches, or by the degradation of sealants over time and weather exposure. This is why it’s so important to regularly check the condition of your RV’s roof.
Tree damage can also occur when you’re sitting still. Anytime you park your RV under a tree, you risk damage. High winds, lightning, or a tree’s advanced age can cause branches or entire limbs to drop. If your RV happens to be parked there at the time, your RV roof could sustain extensive damage.
RV Roof Types
Not all RVs have the same type of roof, of course. The five most common types of RV roofing are EPDM, TPO, PVC, fiberglass, and aluminum. Let’s take a look at some details, including the pros and cons of each:
EPDM, TPO, and PVC are all commonly referred to as “rubber roofs,” although they’re not identical products. EPDM (ethylene propylene diene terpolymer) is the least expensive and easiest to install. This lightweight material doesn’t dent, scratch, or scuff easily, but RVers can generally pick up repair materials from their local big-box store when it does. Holes typically occur due to a lack of preventative maintenance or rough impacts with tree limbs.
TPO (thermoplastic polyolefin) is a white, single-layer rubber-like roofing material. Because it’s white, it excels at reflecting heat from the sun. TPO roofs are available in a variety of thicknesses, depending on the manufacturer’s specifications. Whether or not the thicker material is more effective over the long haul seems to be a hot topic in RV discussion forums. TPO roofs have a laminate cover that helps keep them from weakening and developing cracks. This material is applied in sheets, which increases the potential for damage due to aged or faulty caulking.
Properly sealed vent pipes and other roof penetrations are vital to preventing leaks and expensive repairs.
PVC (which stands for PolyVinyl Chloride) roof membrane is the last “rubber roof” material. It’s a single-ply roofing solution commonly used on flat and nearly flat roofs. Often used in commercial roofing, PVC roofing material is made from a lower percentage of oil and petroleum than either TPO or EPDM rubber roofing. It’s a particularly strong and stable material, and the seams can be heat-welded, which allows a PVC roof to expand and contract as needed while offering excellent adhesion. It can also be sealed with solvent welding and attached with adhesives.
For an even more in-depth look at the various types of materials used for RV roofs, check out PVC vs TPO vs EPDM RV Roof Options: Which Is the Best Choice?
Fiberglass is another standard RV roofing material that’s exceptionally durable. RVers appreciate the fact that fiberglass is rot and rust-resistant, both significant concerns for RV roofs. Despite its many benefits, if fiberglass is damaged, repairs can be expensive, requiring a fair amount of labor. Fiberglass can become damaged from extended exposure to intense heat, which can cause cracking.
The last material that’s commonly used for RV roofs is aluminum. Aluminum roofs tend to be resistant to damage from contact with light tree limbs and branches. This metal roofing material is also fire-resistant. Despite these good qualities, the list of cons is relatively extensive. While aluminum may be more robust than rubber or fiberglass, a few bumps or a minor hailstorm can quickly diminish the smooth appearance of a new aluminum roof.
Aluminum also doesn’t work well with adhesives, so rivets are generally used to secure it to the roof structure. Any hole in an RV roof creates an opportunity for leaks. Aluminum tends to retain its shape, which you might not consider a “con”, but in fact, it has the potential to mask leaks and other damage.
If you want to know even more about all the different types of RV roof materials, read our post all about them: The Complete Guide to Your RV Roof
How to Inspect Your Roof for Damage/Holes
No matter what roofing material your RV uses, it’s very important to regularly inspect your RV roof for leaks, cracks and degrading or damaged sealants. Many RV manufacturers recommend checking all seals every 30-90 days. Catching holes and potential leaks early is the key to minimizing repair time and costs.
If your RV doesn’t have an attached ladder, you’ll need a way to gain access to your RV’s roof, such as a folding step ladder , or a collapsible extension ladder . Once you get up there, do a broad visual sweep of the surface, looking for any scuffs, rips, tears, or dents. Once you’ve done the preliminary look around, you’ll want to complete a detailed inspection of every potential source of leaks (i.e. look closely at the seals/sealant around every item that projects out of the roof or any seams where two surfaces meet – like where the front cap meets the roof, etc).
Of course, you should only go up onto your RV’s roof if you’re comfortable that you can be safe up there. If you’re not physically able to climb up there, then don’t. And be especially careful if your roof is wet so that you don’t slip and fall off!
A quick check of the sealant around vents, fans, solar panels, air conditioners, and antennas every 30 days or so keeps our RV roof in great condition, avoiding potentially costly leaks. This Dicor sealant has cracked severely enough that it could easily be allowing water to penetrate through the roof and needs to be cleaned and re-sealed.
Inspect potential problem areas, and then take a closer look at the seams and caulking. Look for cracks and signs of hardening or separation. You’ll also want to inspect areas around vents, air conditioners, antennas, solar panels, and any additional installations.
Cleaning Your RV’s Roof
Ridding your RV’s roof of harmful substances is one of the best preventative measures you can take. You’ll want to do a general sweeping of your RV’s roof to remove excess leaves and debris. This presents an opportunity to thoroughly inspect your roof for mold, mildew, and sap.
Next, spray the roof with clean water to remove loose dirt and grime. Having a few tools on hand, such as a long-handled sponge mop or soft brush, is helpful for this process. Check your owner’s manual to learn what the manufacturer recommends for cleaning your RV, and the roof in particular. Be aware that using products that include petroleum distillates on rubber roofs can damage them or the adhesive that bonds them to the roof structure, which could potentially void your warranty.
Rubber roof cleaners can also work well with fiberglass and aluminum roofs, but be sure to double-check any warnings on the packaging to confirm before purchasing. During the cleaning process, give extra attention to areas where mold, mildew, tree sap, bird droppings, or other stains are present. Rinse thoroughly and often to prevent residue and grime build-up.
If you’re standing on the roof while cleaning, watch where you step! Most importantly, never step backward without looking, and don’t step on anything not meant to walk on, such as skylights or vents.
RV Roof Repair for a Rubber Roof
The first step to repairing an RV roof composed of rubber is to clean the damaged area to see the extent of the damage.
Using the appropriate type of sealant is critical to good, durable DIY roof maintenance and repairs.
If you’re doing routine maintenance, use a tube or two of self-leveling sealant with a caulking gun for any seam holes or cracks. Just be sure that you’re only using the self-leveling sealant on flat, horizontal surfaces as it is too fluid to stay in place on sidewalls. It’s the nature of the sealant… it flows and self-levels in order to smoothly and cleanly seal the surface you apply it over. And because it remains pliable it can flex and remain sealed, even if the parts it’s sealing expand/contract differently with changes in temperature or due to movement.
If you discover a puncture or tear on your RV roof, there are multiple RV roof patches and RV roof tapes (Eternabond is a popular & effective choice) that will provide a quick, easy, and durable fix. It comes in several different combinations of width & length, and several different colors:
RV Roof Repair on a Metal Roof
Clear your metal RV roof of any debris before you begin a repair. Inspect the repair area carefully and take note of what’s around it. Remember, metal roofs are capable of concealing the true extent of any damage.
Inspect the seams and use seam tape and patching compound to fill them and prevent future leaks. Eternabond is one of the most popular tapes (it comes in several colors, including gray which will likely match your metal roof better than other choices), which can actually be used on any type of RV roof, and is virtually permanent. The key is to make sure any seams are completely covered by the tape, overlapping if needed.
RV Roof Repair for a Fiberglass Roof
Fiberglass is less forgiving than other RV roofing materials when it comes to damage. Extensive damage likely requires professional assistance, which can be costly. You’re also at their mercy in terms of the repair timeline. If you’re handy, it’s possible to fix minor cracks and blemishes in a fiberglass roof. Just know your limits and when to hire a professional to prevent future problems.
For any issues you can repair yourself, clean the damaged area thoroughly, and let it dry. Sand the damaged area to provide a smooth surface for repair sealants. If you’re confident, you can even use fiberglass resin, and fiberglass cloth if needed, to make the repair yourself.
But for most minor damage, Eternabond is a great fallback, which just about anyone can apply.
Stay Ahead on Maintenance
We cannot overstate the importance of preventative maintenance. Regularly checking your RV’s roof for damage and cracking seals is the best way to notice small changes that may occur over time. Note that the warranty on your roof may depend on having your RV inspected annually and evidence that you’ve been doing preventative maintenance.
Maintaining your RV roof seals is important to prevent a leak… and serious damage. The seam where the rubber roof met the sidewalls allowed water to seep underneath, doing extensive (and expensive) damage to the substructure.
Cracks and sun damage to your RV’s seals can potentially allow water into your RV. Leaks can often go unnoticed until significant damage has occurred. Water sitting in your RV’s ceiling and walls can cause mold to grow, leading to potential health issues for anyone regularly spending time inside the RV. Of course water penetration left unchecked over a long period of time can lead to serious structural damage and rot.
We inspect the roof of our RV about once a month. We recommend that you regularly inspect your RV’s roof as well and that you don’t put off even the most minor repairs. Tending to minor wear or damage as it occurs may be easy and inexpensive. But delaying regular DIY maintenance and repairs can lead to extensive damage and very expensive professional repairs.
Our best advice: Stay on top of your RV roof!
But if you haven’t you can check out our video (from many years ago, but still useful) about how to repair holes in an RV roof:
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Limestone Farrell
Thursday 29th of May 2025
Are you guys familiar with Alpha Products self leveling caulking? Is it different than Dicor?
TheRVgeeks
Thursday 29th of May 2025
Not very familiar with Alpha, other than they're owned by Lippert, and make some products that compete directly with Dicor. Since we have no personal experience with them (always used Dicor on our RVs), hopefully someone else might be able to comment on how Alpha products have performed for them.
CT Camper
Tuesday 4th of March 2025
Thank you for sharing. Last year, we had to do our RV’s rubber roof because we found a leak. We looked at many roof coatings before making our mind, so we bought RV Roof Magic. It’s the only liquid butyl rubber in the world. After the product dried, it looked like someone put on a brand-new rubber membrane. It is ASTM certified. It’ll withstand standing ponding water 365 days a year. It’s also resistant to harsh climate changes. I highly recommend it to every RV owner out there.
Marc Bell
Thursday 5th of December 2024
I see this article goes back a ways. Do you still use the Millenicom or have you switched to Starlink?
BTW: All good information
TheRVgeeks
Thursday 5th of December 2024
Hey Marc... we're using Starlink now (and LOVE it). We got it for the Mountain Aire when we were planning a trip to the Baja in Mexico (figuring cellular wouldn't cut it and we needed to be online in some REALLY remote areas) and have kept it ever since. Love that there's no contract (though they don't pro-rate, so once you pay for a month, your service stays active until the renewal date... even if you pause/cancel the service) and that it's so easy to setup and take down. It's become our primary source of internet in the RV... and we augment it with cellular (for times we don't want to, or can't, deploy the satellite).
Ed Looney
Friday 28th of May 2021
What's not clear to me on the roof is ... do you have to remove old Dicor seals before replacing them, or can you just clean well, and place a new layer of new Dicor Lap Sealant right over the old? If you have to remove the old Dicor, how do you do it? Is this something you have had to do?
TheRVgeeks
Saturday 29th of May 2021
Hi Ed. Good question. If you check out the video in this earlier post (Preventing RV Roof Leaks (Dicor Maintenance)) you'll see what we usually do is just clean up the existing Dicor and then lay a new coating over top of the old. As long as the old Dicor is still well-sealed to the roof and whatever object is penetrating it (antenna, roof vent, plumbing vent, etc), that should be all you need to do.
If it's been a bunch of years of doing that and the Dicor has gotten excessively thick, or if there are signs that the Dicor has lost its adhesion to the material underneath it, then we'll go through the process of removing the old in order to apply an entirely new seal. To do that, you have to carefully remove the old Dicor (we use a putty knife, but our fiberglass roof is pretty durable... if you have a rubber (EPDM/TPO) roof, you'll want to be extra careful when scraping and use a plastic putty knife gently). Once the majority of it has been physically removed, we can clean the area with mineral spirits (again, for a rubber roof, use mineral spirits sparingly as it can penetrate the rubber and end up weakening the adhesive that holds it to the substrate). Once cleaned, we can apply the new seal using fresh Dicor. But it's pretty rare that we have to do that.
Hope that helps!
Alicia Fudge
Sunday 24th of June 2018
What’s the best product to seal around pluming and electrical from underneath my outback. I need to seal everything to keep mice from getting in. I used spray foam last year but I still have them this year
TheRVgeeks
Sunday 24th of June 2018
Hi Alicia! Sorry to hear about your rodent problem. We've had more than our fair share of them over the years, have tried just about every recommended solution, and unfortunately, there doesn't seen to be a magic bullet. There's just no way to seal everything tightly enough, and they can get through, or eat through, just about anything. We've tried peppermint oil, dryer sheets, CabFresh, and even sonic repellers to keep them away, and steel wool or brass wool to plug up openings. They still find a way in. The best solution we've found is to keep traps set and checked wherever you see mouse droppings, and kill them fast before they can do any damage. If you're having a lot of them, a multi-kill bucket trap with water in the bottom might be best.