Batteries are a critical part of any RV. They give you the power you need to operate a variety of features, including appliances, devices, and lights. And, if you have a motorized RV, you also need a battery to start and drive your rig.
However, there are several different types of RV batteries, and it’s essential to understand the differences between them. This ensures you don’t purchase the wrong type of battery for your camping situation and have sufficient power to run everything you hope to while camping. This is especially crucial for boondockers like us, but it’s important information for every RVer to understand, even if you’re usually connected to shore power.
In this post, we’ll break it all down, aiming to clarify some of the confusion surrounding RV batteries.
- 1) What Kind of Battery Should You Use In an RV?
- 2) What’s the Difference Between a Starting/Chassis Battery and a Deep Cycle Battery?
- 3) What Are the Different Types of Batteries?
- 4) How Long Does an RV Battery Last?
- 5) A Deep-Dive Into the Pros & Cons of Various Battery Types
What Kind of Battery Should You Use In an RV?
Let’s clarify something at the outset:
- If you have a driveable RV (Class A, B, or C RVs are all motorized), then your rig has two different types of batteries — you’ll have a “chassis” (or “start/starting”) battery and a “house” battery (or batteries)
- If you have a travel trailer or 5th wheel (an RV with no engine, that you tow), then you’ll only have a house battery bank.
Let’s briefly look at the difference between RV chassis batteries and RV house batteries.
Chassis Batteries
The chassis battery is your starting battery. It sits in your engine compartment and starts your RV’s engine (be sure to check out our post on how to clean battery terminals to keep your chassis battery in good condition). After start-up, most chassis batteries feed all the same things you’d expect on most motor vehicles: brake, tail, and turn-signal lights, dash heat and A/C, windshield wipers, horn, etc.
A chassis battery is a starting battery whose main job it is to start the engine of a motorized RV.
Again, chassis/start/engine batteries are only found on motorized RVs. The vehicle’s alternator keeps the chassis battery fully charged as you drive, so it stays fully charged in everyday use.
House Batteries
Most RVs have at least one house battery, but many rigs have an entire bank of them. These batteries power interior lights, water pump, vent fans, and other devices inside your RV. Your house battery bank not only supplies power to your RV when you’re boondocking, though. It also supplies any power you may need when you stop for lunch on the way to your destination. Do you need to flush your toilet or wash your hands while on a road trip? You’ll need your water pump for that, and it gets its power from your RV’s house battery.
This RV is boondocking (not connected to shore power). Its the rig’s house batteries powering the interior lights.
House batteries are designed to be drawn down, then recharged, as needed. Because their charge level cycles up and down as part of their normal operation, deep-cycle batteries are used for the house battery bank in an RV.
What’s the Difference Between a Starting/Chassis Battery and a Deep Cycle Battery?
Starting/chassis batteries and deep cycle batteries are designed for very different uses. A starting/ignition battery is designed for intense, high bursts of power, utilizing its maximum output in short bursts to start an engine. A deep-cycle battery is designed for steady power use over more extended periods. Instead of short bursts of maximum power, a deep cycle battery is designed for maximum capacity — that is, lower levels of continuous power over time.
Starting Batteries
With a starting, or chassis, battery, the depth of discharge is very minimal, with only short spikes needed to start the vehicle. Starting batteries are made with more lead plates, which are thinner than deep-cycle batteries. These thinner plates, however, will warp and pit if they’re repeatedly discharged deeply. Therefore, a starting battery is not designed to withstand the deep discharges over time that a deep-cycle battery can endure.
Additionally, since starting batteries are typically used to start a vehicle, most are rated in Cold Cranking Amps (CCA). A CCA rating is the number of amps (amperes) a battery can deliver at 32°F (0°C) for 30 seconds while maintaining a minimum of 7.2 volts. The higher the CCA rating, the higher the battery’s cranking ability. However, there is no correlation between the CCA rating of a battery and its amp-hour storage capacity (what you’d be interested in for a deep-cycle battery).
Deep Cycle Batteries
A deep-cycle battery is designed to supply continuous power over extended periods, with its charge level increasing and decreasing in response to use and charging. This is why you want a deep-cycle battery to provide the power to run the appliances and devices in the “house” portion of your RV. You need a battery that is unharmed by pulling power out of it, lowering its state of charge.
You’ll also find deep cycle batteries used in boats, golf carts, and motorized wheelchairs, as well as in certain types of industrial equipment.
On the left are two chassis batteries, which start the engine. On the right are four lead-acid house batteries designed for the purpose of powering the appliances, devices, and components of an RV.
A deep-cycle battery is designed to provide maximum capacity over time, rather than for short bursts of high energy. They have thicker lead plates, which enable them to be safely cycled up and down without damage. While designed to be discharged, it’s important to remember that discharging a deep-cycle lead-acid battery below 50% depth of discharge will reduce its lifespan.
So, deep cycle RV batteries have thicker plates to provide continuous power and a deeper discharge state. In comparison, start/chassis batteries have thinner plates to provide short bursts of high energy, and remain mostly or fully charged most or all of the time.
What Are the Different Types of Batteries?
There are four different types of batteries commonly used in RVs, each utilizing a distinct battery chemistry. All of these can be used as RV house batteries, but they’re not all the same. It’s essential to understand the differences to select the most suitable type of battery for powering your RV optimally.
Flooded Lead Acid (FLA)
A flooded lead-acid battery is the most basic type of RV battery and can be used for house or chassis applications. As mentioned, the design of chassis/start batteries differs from deep-cycle house batteries. But FLA can be used for either application.
When a flooded lead-acid battery is charged, the acid/electrolyte and lead plates in the battery react, which is how the electricity is stored. Flooded lead-acid batteries must be mounted and kept in an upright position. Otherwise, the electrolyte would leak out of the vent caps. FLA batteries are pretty heavy and require routine maintenance.
You need to check the cells of a flooded lead-acid battery to ensure the electrolyte is at the correct level (at the bottom of the filler tubes), as it will dissipate over time. FLA batteries require topping up with distilled water when the electrolyte level drops.
Flooded lead acid batteries require monitoring and maintenance to keep the electrolyte at the proper level.
FLA batteries, particularly those used in house applications, need to be monitored to make sure the depth of discharge is not too low. Generally speaking, it’s best not to allow a deep-cycle FLA battery to fall below a 50% state of charge. Otherwise, it can be damaged, and its lifespan will be significantly shortened (for more information, see our post on the best RV battery monitors).
Flooded lead-acid batteries also out-gas, meaning they must be installed in a vented space. When a flooded lead-acid battery is charging, it can produce hydrogen sulfide gas, which is flammable, explosive, poisonous, colorless, and has an odor reminiscent of rotten eggs. This gas is heavier than air, so it will accumulate at the bottom of spaces that aren’t properly ventilated.
There are three different types of flooded lead acid batteries:
Standard FLA
Standard flooded lead-acid batteries contain lead plates and an acid electrolyte. These have been around for ages and are the most common and well-known battery chemistry and form factor. They’re also the cheapest option and the most readily available. FLA batteries perform best with a 3-stage charging process (Bulk, Absorb, Float) to ensure that all lead sulfate is removed from the lead plates and returned to the electrolyte solution for the next discharge cycle (sulfation is the result of the chemical reaction that generates the electricity in the battery).
But not all converter/chargers offer 3-stage charging. Some older RVs still have the original converter/charger, while others may have a cheaper, less efficient one. These can overcharge your FLA RV batteries if your RV is stored plugged in for long periods of time. Therefore, if your rig lacks a three-stage converter/charger and your batteries are flooded lead-acid, you’ll need to disconnect your RV house batteries and store them properly for long-term storage. For more information, please see our post, “Should I Disconnect My RV Battery When Plugged In to Shore Power?”
If you have standard flooded wet-cell lead-acid batteries, you’ll need a good-quality hydrometer to maintain them properly. And every RVer should have a good multimeter on board:
- Professional Battery Tester
- Compact hand held tester reads specific gravity of battery acid
- Backlight/Large screen LCD display/NCV/Live wire test
- MAX/MIN
Gel Cell
A gel or “gel mat” battery is a style of flooded lead-acid battery in which the liquid electrolyte (the “battery acid”) is concentrated into a gel by the addition of sulfuric acid and silica. The thickened electrolyte allows a gel battery to be stored in a variety of positions other than upright, as they’re less prone to spilling. They also produce fewer fumes, so there’s less outgassing. That means limited ventilation is not as much of an issue with gel batteries.
Advantages of Gel Cell Batteries:
- Less maintenance because the electrolyte doesn’t need to be topped off
- They don’t leak
- Can be installed in almost any position
- Vibration from driving isn’t an issue
- No fumes or off-gassing
- More resistant to sulfation
Disadvantages of Gel Cell Batteries:
- More expensive than standard wet cell FLA batteries
- More time is required to charge
- Excessive heat can damage the battery and reduce its lifespan
- Can still only be discharged to 50%
AGM
An AGM or “Absorbed Glass Mat” battery is another type of flooded lead-acid battery. It has the same lead-acid chemistry, but the electrolyte is “absorbed” and contained within a matting inside the battery. This means that, like a gel battery, an AGM battery can be placed in just about any orientation.
There are various types of maintenance-free lead-acid batteries.
There are pros and cons to an AGM battery as well.
Advantages of AGM Batteries:
- Virtually maintenance free
- Spill-proof due to the glass mats
- Power output is high due to minimal internal resistance
- Shorter charging time compared to regular flooded batteries.
- Longer lifespan due to the fact that AGM batteries don’t self-discharge like other types of batteries, even after long periods of inactivity.
- They’re designed to be highly durable for use in the aircraft industry, so they’re very resistant to vibrations from driving, even over rugged terrain.
- AGMs are less prone to sulfation, so battery equalization isn’t needed nearly as often.
Disadvantage of AGM Batteries:
- Expensive compared to standard wet-cell batteries
- Charging capacity is reduced over time
- They’re sensitive to overcharging and high voltages, which can shorten their lifespan
Lithium
First, a lithium battery for RV use differs from the more generic “Lithium Ion” category of batteries (which are known for offering very high power density in small packages and are used for battery-powered devices like laptops, tablets, cordless drills, etc). The term “Lithium Ion” is a generic term that describes a whole classification of battery chemistries, just as the term “vehicle” covers a whole range of brands/models/styles of transportation from cars to pick-up trucks to diesel pushers.
On the left, you see our three Battle Born Gamechanger 3.0 batteries prior to installation in our new trailer. On the right, you see them fully installed in the front pass-through compartment.
The “lithium” batteries used in RV applications are typically Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4), which is exceptionally stable and safe. They are much lighter than FLA batteries and can be discharged almost completely. So the 50% max state of charge doesn’t apply, leaving far more energy available than a seemingly equivalent FLA battery. There are no issues with deep discharges reducing battery life.
There are also no issues with outgassing, nor are there any free liquids inside, making it possible to install LiFePO4 batteries almost anywhere.
Advantages of Lithium Batteries:
Lithium-ion (again LiFePO4) batteries tend to overcome most lead-acid battery disadvantages:
- They have greater energy density (the amount of energy a battery stores, given the space and weight), so you get more energy for the same amount of space.
- Fewer batteries are required to produce the same amount of energy (or more).
- Lithium batteries have less voltage sag and maintain a higher voltage throughout the discharge cycle, making them better for high-powered appliances such as cooktops & microwaves.
- Lithium batteries charge much faster because they accept a very high charge current, with less resistance to charging.
- They can run multiple devices & appliances simultaneously, with the only limitation being the RV’s inverter
- Better able to sustain deep discharges
All that said, there are some potential downsides to LiFePO4 batteries:
Disadvantages of Lithium Batteries
- Cost – or at least initial cost. Lithium does cost more to buy. However, they tend to be well worth that initial higher price because they don’t need to be replaced anywhere near as frequently as other types of batteries. They last a long time.
- Require specific charging components – Lithium batteries require different charging profiles than flooded lead-acid batteries do. So upgrading to lithium could require changing out other components (especially the converter/charger) for lithium-compatible versions.
- Temperature sensitivity – A lithium battery will be damaged if it’s charged while the battery temperature is at or below freezing. This means that they can’t be stored in a cold area, nor are they the best choice for winter camping in very cold climates unless they’re located in a heated space. However…
Lithium battery manufacturers have addressed the temperature sensitivity issue in several ways, as we pointed out in our post discussing the misconceptions about lithium RV batteries. First, some brands of lithium RV batteries allow you to continue drawing power as low as -4℉.
However, the problem is that permanent damage will likely occur to most lithium-ion batteries if they are charged at temperatures below freezing. BUT… virtually all lithium RV batteries employ a Battery Management System (BMS) that monitors the internal temperature. It ensures that the charging current won’t be allowed to flow into the battery when it would be damaged by doing so (for more on all functions of a BMS, see our post “What Is the Function of a Battery Management System?“).
If you like to RV in cold weather, you’ll need to consider how cold it’ll get so you know if lithium batteries will be the right fit for you.
In addition to the protective features of a BMS, there are now lithium batteries on the market that have built-in heating elements. When the BMS detects that the battery’s internal temperature has dropped low enough, it can trigger the heating element to activate, allowing the battery to be charged even when the ambient temperature is well below freezing. In fact, one of our favorite batteries, the 100Ah Battle Born (which is sized to be a direct replacement for a typical RV house battery), is self-heating (so was the 600Ah Xantrex battery we had in our Newmar).
See more about them (and others) in our post on the best RV battery for boondocking.
We know that many RVers are upgrading to LiFePO4 batteries. If you’re in the market for high-quality battery solutions for your rig, we’ve got a Battleborn coupon that’ll save you some cash.
How Long Does an RV Battery Last?
The answer to this question depends on the type of RV battery you have and how well you’ve maintained it. Generally, properly maintained FLA deep-cycle batteries typically last between 4 and 6 years. However, many RV owners must replace their RV batteries more frequently, often due to inadequate care and maintenance.
However, high-quality lithium RV batteries are designed to last much longer than traditional lead-acid batteries. A properly-maintained lithium RV battery can last up to 10 years or more. In fact, some manufacturers of LiFePO4 batteries offer a 10-year warranty!
A Deep-Dive Into the Pros & Cons of Various Battery Types
If you’d like a deep dive into the pros & cons of the various battery types, we gave a lengthy talk on the subject at the 2019 Xscapers Annual Bash. We compared and contrasted the benefits and limitations of standard flooded lead-acid, AGM, and lithium batteries. This is an uncut deep dive, so you might want to grab a glass of lemonade or a cup ‘o joe for this one!
Now that you’ve mastered the topic of RV batteries… consider extending your knowledge of your RV’s wiring and electrical system, too.
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Anthony Barbieri
Saturday 19th of July 2025
You posted an article about connecting lithium batteries in a trailer connected to a truck and the possible overload of the trucks alternator. To prevent such a problem why not disable the black charging wire in a 7 pin connector? Since i do not boondock that would be the easiest solution. I did upgrade my trailer converter to accomadate the lithium batteries. What say you on my solution? Remove charging pin (black wire).
TheRVgeeks
Saturday 19th of July 2025
Hey @Anthony - that’s fine, as long as you are OK with not gett8ng any charging from the truck while you’re towing. Disconnecting the wire stops the potential for draining the truck’s battery OR burning out the alternator.
Steve Ton
Monday 23rd of September 2024
I have a 2017 Tiffin Phaeton all electric coach (no solar panel) that has 6 6V-300ah (12V-900ah) lifetime batteries that need replaced. I’m considering installing 2 12V-460ah (920ah) LiFePO4 lithium batteries. I have a Magnum Sine MS series inverter/charger with the ME-ARC50 remote control. According to the manual I can use the CC/CV setting to custom input the correct charging profile. I’m not sure if it is mandatory, but I plan on also installing a 60V DC-DC charger to protect the batteries and alternator. Also, I would like to put a battery monitor in a cabinet in the coach but everyone I’ve seen says that they are for 0-500ah systems would this work or are there 100ah monitors available or will the ME-ARC50 work as a monitor. What do you guys think of this plan. Thanks Steve
Steve Ton
Friday 27th of September 2024
@TheRVgeeks, Thanks for the reply. I talked to Magnum and my inverter/charger works with the batteries I'm looking at. I found the new Victron 1000Ah shunt that is Bluetooth with an app for my iPhone that will work in combination with their DC-DC charger (expensive but sometimes you get what you want if you willing to pay for it). Now I just have to take the plunge. Thanks again, Steve
TheRVgeeks
Thursday 26th of September 2024
Hey Steve. Sounds like you've got a good plan for upgrading your batteries, etc. The Magnum inverter/charger SHOULD be programmable to a custom charge profile to be compatible with the lithium batteries. But we'd suggest contacting the manufacturer of the lithium batteries you're considering installing and asking if they have any info about that (and/or any recommendations for the settings for your Magnum). It's been a while since we've had a Magnum system, so we're not 100% sure of the interdependencies between the year/model of the inverter/charger itself and the control panel (we had to update our inverter/charger when we switched our Mountain Aire to lithium because our combination WASN'T compatible, but it was an '05, not a 2017).
On the battery monitor, we haven't seen them having limitations on the amp-hour capacity of the battery bank. But the shunt that they come with (that measures the flow of current into/out of the batteries) is usually limited to the total number of amps that can be drawn. Most have 500-amp shunts, but we know that Victron offers their SmartShunt in large capacities (check out the options here on Amazon: https://amzn.to/4gCILQT). It all just depends on how many amps will be drawn from (or put back into) your batteries at any one time. So, if your system is going to be wired to allow the air conditioners to run off the batteries, for instance... there could be a situation where both (or all three) are starting up at the same time. That would draw a LOT of current from the batteries and could damage too small of a shunt.
Eric
Wednesday 17th of April 2024
when hooking up two batteries in parallel, is it necessary that each battery be the same ah, group size, age, etc? I have two different 12v agm deep cycles. One is 100ah the other 125ah with different group numbers as well.
Thanks, Eric
TheRVgeeks
Thursday 18th of April 2024
Hi Eric. Great question. Technically, as long as they're the same voltage, no. BUT... to get the best life from both batteries, it's best of they are the same capacity (Ah), voltage, and age (preferably both new). Differences in any of these factors can lead to one battery bearing the brunt of use (aging it faster) and other inequities that just make the combination underperform. In a pinch? Or for short term? Or because you have these two batteries sitting around and they'll go to waste otherwise and you don't really care if they last the longest they could? Sure. But the best solution is two matched batteries.
Dale
Wednesday 23rd of August 2023
What about carbon-foam batteries and lead crystal batteries?
They both contain lead so they are heavy, and I believe they have better charge-discharge characteristics and a wider operating temperature range.
TheRVgeeks
Tuesday 29th of August 2023
Those are both interesting options, Dale. At one point, we were seriously considering carbon foam batteries to replace our house flooded lead acids we had at the time. But both of these options tend to be significantly more expensive than flooded lead acid batteries... without really providing that much of an improvement (either in capacity or performance). Honestly, with the availability of the good lithium iron batteries (and with prices coming down), we generally recommend them as the best option when you want to step up from lead.
William Moore
Tuesday 20th of June 2023
Questions: 1. I just installed LiFeP04 batteries, and normally my solar system charges them to 100% in a couple hours. But we've been in rain and shade for a couple weeks now, and I'm so used to the Lead Acid batteries I've been running my generator when they get to 75%. What percentage should I allow them to get to before I recharge from the generator? 2. Do they make or can you recommend an AGS that works off of percentage instead of voltage? The highest I can set my AGS to start the generator is 12.2v, but I think that's below the 10% remaining in the batteries and the BMS would shut down the battery before the AGS would kick in. 3. My Inverter/Charger was installed with Lead Acid batteries back in 2014 (before LiFeP04 became popular). Do you recommend upgrading my Inverter/Charger to something that was designed with Lithium batteries in mind? If so, which one?
TheRVgeeks
Wednesday 21st of June 2023
Hi William... in answer to your questions:
There really isn't any set %SOC at which you should regularly recharge lithium batteries. That's kinda their benefit: no more worrying about draining too low or having to fully recharge them regularly. So it's really more an issue of being sure that, at bedtime, there's enough power left to get you through the night. Unfortunately, we don't know of any AGS (yet) that offers the ability to use State of Charge (%) instead of voltage. Would be great if there was one... and we assume one will eventually be available, once Lithium more completely takes over, but until then, no. As a matter of fact, we have our AGS completely disabled because we didn't want to rely on voltage alone as the determinant for when the generator started up. There'd really only be two reasons to upgrade/replace the inverter/charger: (1) if it wasn't Lithium compatible (or didn't offer a "Custom" setting for configuring the charge profile) or (2) if you just wanted a larger charger in order to get the batteries charged faster when on shore or running the genny. If the one you have now is lithium compatible and charges fast enough for you... we'd say leave it.Hope that helps, William. It does take a while to adapt, but eventually you'll realize all of the little things you used to have to worry about regarding your batteries that you just don't have to with Lithium. Can be quite freeing.