Step by Step Guide For RV Water Pump Replacement (Easy DIY)

Replacing an RV water pump isn’t typically part of your regular maintenance routine when you own an RV. After all, a water pump should last for many years in normal use (assuming you winterize it properly during the off-season). So how will you know when it’s time to check on your water pump or replace it entirely? And once you determine it needs to be replaced, how do you go about doing it?

Table of Contents hide

1) When Do You Need to Do an RV Water Pump Replacement?
2) What You’ll Need for an RV Water Pump Replacement
3) How to Do an RV Water Pump Replacement Step-By-Step
4) Additional Tips for Completing Water Pump Replacement in Your RV
5) Enjoy Your New Replacement RV Water Pump!

When Do You Need to Do an RV Water Pump Replacement?

The way you’re most likely to know when you need to replace your RV water pump is when the water stops running the way it normally does. When you turn on your water pump and open a faucet inside your RV, if the pump doesn’t turn on and the water doesn’t run, it’s likely that your water pump has failed.

Prior to a complete shut-down of the system, it’s possible that you may have noticed that your water pressure was getting finicky or inconsistent. This can indicate a pending failure of the water pump. Other indicators that it might be time to replace your water pump include water leaking from the pump or unusual noises coming from the unit. And finally, some RV owners may choose to replace a water pump simply to upgrade to a more efficient or quieter brand.

Whatever the reason you may be considering replacing the water pump in your RV, we’re here to walk you through the steps to DIY the job. It’s a relatively simple process, as long as you know what to expect and you come prepared. We’ve got you covered there, so let’s get rolling.

What You’ll Need for an RV Water Pump Replacement

Most of the items on your list are tools you likely have on hand or can easily find at a local hardware store. These items include:

A drill or screwdriver
Wire Cutters
Wire stripper/crimper
Spade connectors (or, as Lyn commented below, you could use WAGO Connectors instead)
A bowl or bucket to catch some water, and maybe even a sponge or towel for the same purpose

You’ll likely need to order the replacement water pump ahead of time, so plan accordingly. We replaced our failed water pump with a Remco Industries 55-AQUAJET-AES model (but check out our post about the 5 Best RV Water Pumps to see if a different choice would be best for you).

Sale

Remco Industries 55AQUAJET-AES Aqua Jet H2O Pump 3.4 Gpm 12V

Liquid Temperature: 140°F (60°C) Max.
Amps: 10 Max.

If you prefer reading over watching a video, you may prefer to follow the step-by-step instructions below. If you’re a more visual learner, you’ll probably appreciate our DIY tutorial video where we show exactly how we replaced our water pump.

How to Do an RV Water Pump Replacement Step-By-Step

Once you’ve got your tools and replacement items prepared, you’re ready to replace the pump. Out with the old and in with the new! It’s pretty straightforward if you follow the steps below:

Turn Off City Water and Water Pump

To DIY an RV water pump replacement, first turn off the city water connection.

Start this DIY project by turning off the city water connection and turning off your water pump.

Anytime you’re working with your RV’s plumbing, your first step should be to turn off the city water if you’re connected to that source. You’ll also want to switch off the water pump.

Remove Water Pump Fuse

Remove the water pump fuse from the fuse panel.

Locate your water pump’s fuse on the fuse panel and pull it for additional safety.

As an added precaution, you should remove the fuse that powers the water pump. You’ll find this on your 12-volt electrical panel.

Turn on a Faucet

Some people opt to turn on all faucets to bleed out any water pressure in the plumbing system. This might be a faster way to drain the water, but one tap is all that’s necessary. Once a single faucet runs dry, you can move on to the next step.

Disconnect Water Pump from Latching Controller (if Applicable)

A latching controller allows an RV to utilize multiple on/off switches for the water pump. That way you can turn the water pump on or off from the bathroom, water bay, or kitchen for example. If your system has a latching controller, it will likely be located near the water pump. You should see a box with multiple wires feeding into the various water pump switches throughout your RV (your RV may not have a latching controller if you only have a single switch/control for turning the water pump on & off).

If your RV has a latching controller it should be located next to the water pump.

Here you see the latching controller positioned directly beside the water pump on our old Newmar motorhome.

To disconnect power, start with the pump’s ground wire from the latching controller, which is usually black. You might want to take a photo of the controller before removing any wires, to help you confirm that you’re reconnecting them correctly during re-assembly.

Removing the black ground wire from the latching controller.

Remove the black ground wire from the latching controller.

Next, remove the positive lead from the latching controller that goes over to the water pump, which is usually a red wire. Our positive lead was also connected to a yellow wire, and yours may have a similar set-up.

During an RV water pump replacement you'll disconnect the positive lead and snip the yellow wire.

The positive lead contains the red and yellow wires.

After removing these, snip the yellow wire from the connector. You’ll eventually reconnect this wire to the positive lead on the new pump.

Remove Inlet and Outlet Lines from the Pump

Place your bucket or bowl underneath the pump before you begin to unscrew it. Expect water to leak out as you unscrew both the inlet and outlet lines.

We recommend using your hands to unscrew the lines so as not to damage the plastic fittings. If the fittings are too tight, pliers might be necessary to get them started, but be sure to be careful so you don’t damage them.

Remove Screws Holding the Pump in Place

Once you’ve disconnected the inlet and outlet hoses, you can simply unscrew the pump from its mount.

Remove the Inlet Filter and Clean It (or Replace It If Needed)

An RV water pump replacement is a good opportunity to clean out the filter.

Removing the filter presents a great opportunity to clean out any debris that has accumulated over time.

You’ll need to reinstall the inlet filter from the old pump onto the new one. Using a crescent wrench, you can unscrew the filter. Once you detach it, open the filter (the two halves of the filter should twist apart from one another) and clean away any debris inside. If it’s badly clogged (or just very old), it may be a good time to replace it completely.

Sale

Mudder Water Pump Strainer Filter, RV Replacement 1/2 Inch Twist-On Pipe Strainer Compatible with WFCO or Shurflo Pumps

RV Pump Strainer Specification: 50 mesh stainless steel screen, twist-on water strainer, 1/2 inch NPSM Inlet, 1/2 inch NPSM Outlet
Transparent Design: Easy to know when it's time to clean out the container bowl of the strainer, convenient for you to clean out the supply line and...

Install the Filter on the New Pump

Both the pump and the filter should have an arrow(s) indicating the direction of the water flow. Install the filter on the side of the pump that matches the direction of the arrow, with both arrows pointing in the same direction.

Note that both the pump and filter have directional arrows. Make sure both arrows are facing the same direction before screwing the filter onto the new pump.

To install it, use a crescent wrench to screw the fitting from the new pump into the filter. Remove the red shipping cap from the pump, and firmly press and twist the fitting where the shipping cap was. Press the clip down to lock the fitting into place.

Repeat this step with the fitting on the other side of the pump where you see a red shipping cap.

Strip the Wires and Crimp-on the Connectors for the Latching Controller

Locate the pump’s black ground wire and strip the wire insulation from the wire tip before crimping on a spade connector. Gently tug the connector to ensure a tight crimp.

The red and yellow wires of the latching controller are crimped together.

Twist together the exposed ends of the red and yellow wires before crimping on a spade connector (again, your wiring may differ slightly depending on your RV make & model. If you’re unsure about the connections, refer to the photo you took before starting.

Next, strip the previously snipped yellow wire along with the red wire from the new pump. Twist together the exposed ends of the two wires before crimping on a spade connector. Again, tug gently to ensure the connector is secure.

Mount the Pump into the RV with Existing Screw Holes

You can usually use the same location and screw holes to mount the new pump (the mounting hole pattern is fairly standard). This will depend on the replacement you choose, but the exact replacement model of the pump often matches the earlier model. Mount the new pump with four screws.

Connect the Inlet and Outlet Water Lines to Pump

Reconnect the inlet and outlet water lines to the new pump simply by screwing them firmly by hand. Again, be gentle with the fittings. They’re usually designed to be finger-tightened, so no tools should be required.

Connect Pump Wires to the Latching Controller

Reconnect the positive lead (in our case, these were the yellow and red wires) onto the latching controller, followed by the black ground wire.

Re-Install the Water Pump Fuse and Turn on the Water Pump

Return the fuse that you removed from the electrical panel to its original location.

Turn on Water to Ensure Proper Operation

Now you can turn on the water pump at one of the switches. To check the function of your new pump, simply turn on a faucet. After some cavitating and sputtering (which is normal as the air clears from the lines) you should see consistent water pressure and flow, and the water should stop when you turn off the faucet.

Check Water Connections for Leaks

Once the water is running smoothly, close all faucets but keep your pump turned on, which maintains pressure in the system. With the system pressurized, check all connections at the pump and inline filter for leaks. Tighten them as needed.

Additional Tips for Completing Water Pump Replacement in Your RV

Hopefully, you’ve successfully swapped out your old water pump for a new one following these steps. Just in case you had a few hiccups, here are a few alternative options that you might need to consider.

Once New Pump is Installed, You May Need to Bleed Air Out of Lines

When you first turn the water back on, it’s common for the plumbing to contain air bubbles, so keep the water pump running. You may also want to turn on multiple faucets to allow the water to pass through the pipes. Sometimes it can take a couple of tries, turning a faucet on and then off again, to get all of the air to bleed out.

Alternate Option to Removing Fuse

Instead of removing the fuse, you can disconnect the RV from power and flip the battery disconnect switch to the “Off” position so no energy runs to the appliances. Just be aware that your entire RV will be without power during the project, so plan accordingly (i.e. don’t open the fridge and/or move the food to a cooler, etc).

Use Butt Connectors if You Don’t Have A Latching Controller

As previously mentioned, not all RV models have a latching controller. If that’s the case in your RV, simply use butt connectors (also known as end splices) to connect the existing power wires to your new pump.

HGB First Source Electrical Wiring Butt Connector (22-16ga) 100 Pcs.

Enjoy Your New Replacement RV Water Pump!

Ultimately, replacing a water pump in an RV is relatively simple and an easy enough project to DIY in a single afternoon. Projects like these help you to become more acquainted with your RV and help you understand how the system works, which can be useful for future troubleshooting (trust us!). You might even find that you’re pretty impressed with your new DIY prowess and feel ready to take on more adventurous challenges as a result.

Congratulations on your new water pump installation! We recommend boondocking to allow you to fully test the waters. (See what we did there?)

The RVgeeks enjoying a remote boondocking location

One of the things we’ve long loved the most about RVing is being able to have all the comforts of home, no matter where we’re camped for the night.

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David

Sunday 15th of December 2024

I’m confused - the replacement pump you link to in this post says in the title on Amazon it is 3.4 GPM but under product details it says 5.3 GPM? And 240 bucks seems expensive, was this the cheaper lower flow rate pump you guys talked about in the video?

Our pump is making a strange ticking sound, not a full cycling, just a very brief 1 second start/stop. Not sure what this is about (bled all the air out of the lines, adjusted the flow/pressure rate - didn't help). Might have to replace it I guess.

TheRVgeeks

Hi David. Sorry... that IS the correct pump but the Amazon listing (beyond our control) has incorrect information about the flow rate. The 55Aquajet-AES is the 3.4GPM model. It is definitely expensive, though. We got it since it was a direct replacement for the one our RV came with. But if you want to check out some less-expensive options, see this article: 5 Best RV Water Pumps For Replacement or Upgrade! There are some good ShurFlo and FloJet models that are cheaper.

Lyngengr

Thursday 12th of December 2024

I don't like using the butt connectors or any kind of crimp joint with electrical wiring. I don't like wire nuts either. A much better connection can be made with Wago clamps. These are a simple and secure way of joining wires.

Jay

In our prior RV, I replaced the water pump due to intermittent cycling of the pump without any leaks being found and frequent air in the lines. That pump was over 10 years old and it seemed reasonable to blame it. After replacing it, the same problems with frequent cycling and air in the lines remained. Apparently, it wasn't a defective pump, although the water pressure was slightly better with the new pump. Eventually, I found the cause when I went to drain the fresh water tank. One of the bypass/drain valves was just a hair open and it wasn't obvious at all. The drain hose under it was just slightly damp. I did save the old pump just in case and gave it to the coach's new owner.

I believe that water pump connections in the newer RVs are now pretty much standard (or should be). That might not be the case with older RVs. They all supply about 35-45 PSI and about 3 GPM. Having replaced several water pumps in our first 3 RVs, the pressures and pulsating flow rates have never really changed enough to warrant replacement. There are some water pumps that will give you a steady flow but they're quite expensive. Your best option for compatibility reasons might be to get the same pump manufacturer as the old one, although the new pumps usually contain fittings for various connection scenarios. I would not expect that the screw holes on a different pump would line up with the old holes. Sometimes it's better to make new holes. Don't over-tighten the mounting screws because the rubber feet help absorb the pump's vibrations.

Being able to hear the pump may be annoying, but it also tells you when the pump is working! That gets back to my first paragraph above. The problem might not be the pump, so check all of your connections, both inside and outside. If you have a washing machine in your RV, check its 2, shut-off valves. I had one of those crack (they were plastic) and they're not easy to find (they're not in Lowes, HD or most plumbing supply stores) or replace due to their location, especially if a dryer is on top of it. The best source for those for me was in a real hardware store that had a lot of plumbing connections for mobile homes. Always buy more than one in case you drop it behind the washing machine, which is really easy to do. If I were to do that again, I would place a bunch of bubble wrap underneath the valves to catch anything I dropped. It's another $2 part that can ruin your vacation and damage your RV since you can't use any water pressure if it leaks.

sparky1

really great write up/instruction.thanks

Patrick Donald Lyons

Wednesday 24th of November 2021

I replaced a water pump in July of '21. The Pump proved to be faulty and had to replace it again it with another new Pump in October of '21. I did both replacements under your video instructions and now all's well in LyonsLand.

For the second replacement, I got a 1/2" PVC SCH 40 threaded plug # 2113 from Home depot to stop the stream of water from the first disconnect. The plug saved me from I'd say, 90% of the water gushing all over me from the supply side of the pump for the second time. I should've learned from your, Peter's, bath in the video . So once again, Thank you, Peter and John for the videos you share. By the way, I sure lucked out when I bought my Newmar '05 MADP 4304. Saves me from having to adapt instructions from your videos.

Ugh, Patrick. We feel for you with the REPLACEMENT pump being bad. Seems like quality control on parts is suffering in the crush of demand and lack of supply these days. Nothing worse than having the NEW part fail on you!

And clever idea on the threaded plug. Glad you found a way from getting drenched in the process (and hope we remember that trick if/when we ever have to replace our current water pump, LOL!).