If you’ve ever considered switching your RV to lithium batteries, you may have thought (as many people do) that it’s as simple as removing your old lead-acid dinosaurs and dropping in some great new lithium batteries. We wish it was (always) that easy, but there’s more to consider. While switching your RV to lithium batteries (Lithium Iron Phosphate or LiFePO4 to be specific) is a fantastic upgrade, it can also require changing the settings on other components… or even replacing those components with new ones designed to work with lithium batteries.
In this post, we cover everything you need to know to make the switch from lead-acid to lithium batteries.
- 1) Why Switch Your RV to Lithium Batteries?
- 2) What Components May Need to Be Changed When Switching an RV to Lithium Batteries?
- 3) Do I Buy the Same Number of Batteries When Switching My RV to Lithium?
- 4) Is Switching Your RV to Lithium Batteries Worth It?
Why Switch Your RV to Lithium Batteries?
If you’ve been using lead acid, AGM, or gel batteries in your RV and are considering switching to lithium batteries, you’re probably aware that there are many advantages to LiFePO4 batteries that make the switch worthwhile.
Advantages of Lithium Batteries
Lithium-ion (LiFePO4) batteries generally offer numerous advantages over typical lead-acid/AGM/gel cell RV house batteries. Following is a quick summary of how switching to RV lithium batteries can be beneficial:
Greater Energy Density
Lithium batteries have greater energy density (the amount of energy a battery stores, given the space and weight), so you get more energy for the same amount of space.
Need Fewer Batteries
Fewer batteries are required to store the same amount of energy. Since lead-acid batteries can only be drained to (at most) 50% of their capacity without harm, you may only need half as many lithium batteries for the same usable power. The same is true if your RV has a bank of 6V batteries. In this case, each pair of 6V batteries could be replaced with a single 12V lithium battery (more on this later).
Require Less Maintenance
Lead-acid batteries require maintenance (please see our post on how to maintain flooded lead-acid batteries) while LiFePO4 batteries are maintenance-free.
Flooded lead acid batteries require monitoring and maintenance to keep the electrolyte at the proper level.
Less Voltage Sag
Lithium batteries have an extremely steady voltage curve across their charging/discharging profile. This means that as they’re drained, their voltage output stays steady… unlike lead-acid batteries, where the output voltage drops fairly steadily as they’re drained.
A graph showing the change in voltage (output) at various depths of discharge (%) for lead-acid and lithium batteries. Notice how flat the curve is for lithium batteries.
Faster Charging
Lithium batteries charge much faster because they accept a very high charge current, while also having less internal resistance to charging. In contrast, lead-acid batteries require a longer, slower charging cycle (with Bulk, Acceptance, and then Float phases) to reach 100% state of charge (fully recharged).
Capable of Sustaining Deep Discharges
Lithium-ion batteries are far better able to sustain deep discharges without damage, compared with lead-acid batteries which can be damaged when discharged below 50% of their useable capacity (i.e. a 200 Ah lead-acid battery should only be drained down to 100 Ah, to avoid damaging it).
Longer Lifespan
While a typical lead-acid battery generally lasts 2-6 years (depending on how it’s used and maintained, the brand, etc.), lithium-ion batteries are often guaranteed to last 10 years or longer (while retaining at least 80% of their original capacity).
Won’t Corrode or Leak
While flooded lead-acid batteries can corrode and leak, LiFePO4 batteries aren’t susceptible to corrosion or leaking.
RV battery terminal corrosion is the pale green substance surrounding the exposed battery terminal. Corrosion can damage a lead-acid battery, but lithium-ion batteries aren’t susceptible to this threat.
Lighter Weight
A typical lead-acid battery can weigh as much as 70 pounds (higher-quality deep-cycle lead-acid batteries have more lead in their plates, making them heavier), while a lithium-ion battery of similar capacity can weigh half as much (at roughly 30 pounds).
Tolerant to Partial Charges
All types of lead-acid batteries can be damaged by repeated, long-term partial recharging. It can reduce the battery lifespan because of sulphation (where the sulfur from the battery acid stays in combination with the lead on the plates). But this isn’t an issue with lithium batteries, making them particularly great for use with solar (where you may not reach 100% fully charged every day).
These are among the top reasons why many RVers decide to switch to lithium batteries. But, as with everything in life, it’s not ALL roses… there ARE disadvantages to switching to lithium.
Disadvantages of Switching Your RV to Lithium Batteries
Three main disadvantages are typically noted where lithium-ion batteries are concerned. Let’s summarize and address those briefly before moving on to what else you need to know about switching your RV to lithium:
Cost
The upfront cost of LiFePO4 batteries has long been considered a disadvantage of switching. However, the truth is that while lithium batteries cost more to buy at the outset, they tend to be well worth that initial investment because they don’t need to be replaced as frequently as other types of batteries. Between their overall longer lifespan and their greater tolerance of incomplete charging cycles, they’ll last much longer than the lead-acid batteries you’re replacing.
Temperature Sensitivity
The temperature sensitivity of lithium batteries has long been seen as a negative for RV use because a lithium battery can be damaged if it’s charged while the battery temperature is at or below freezing. This has typically meant that lithium batteries can’t be stored in a cold area, nor have they been considered the best choice for cold-weather camping unless they’re located in a heated space.
However, as we noted in our post discussing misconceptions about lithium RV batteries, battery manufacturers have addressed this issue in a couple of different ways. Most significantly, virtually all lithium RV batteries use a Battery Management System (BMS) that monitors the battery’s internal temperature. This ensures that charging current won’t be allowed to flow into the battery when it would cause damage (for more on all functions of a BMS, see our post “What Is the Function of a Battery Management System?“).
This overview of how a battery management system works is provided by Battle Born Batteries, a leader in the lithium battery industry. (Photo and chart courtesy of Battle Born Batteries.)
But, because lithium batteries don’t outgas when operating (like flooded lead-acid batteries do), they can be installed inside your RV’s living space to keep them warm. This also keeps them out of sight… making sure no one decides to walk off with your (expensive) new lithium batteries.
Lastly, keep in mind that the cold temperature issue only affects CHARGING the battery(ies). Most popular brands of lithium-ion batteries for RV use can be DISCHARGED at temperatures well below where you’d be comfortable in your RV (for example, Battle Born Batteries list an operating temperature range (for discharging) of – 4°F to 135°F (-20°C to 57.2°C) which is pretty broad… just be aware that the BMS will protect the battery(ies) from CHARGING in cold temperatures and won’t accept a charge once the internal cell temperature drops to 24°F). So if outside temperatures rise above freezing during the day, the batteries can recharge after warming up.
Require Specific Charging Components
Finally, lithium batteries require a different charging profile than flooded lead-acid batteries. This means that your existing charging components (converter/charger, inverter/charger, and/or solar charge controllers) may not work properly with lithium batteries.
What Components May Need to Be Changed When Switching an RV to Lithium Batteries?
While many lithium batteries are “drop-in” sized (meaning they have the same, or similar, dimensions as standard lead-acid batteries), upgrading to lithium is rarely that easy. There are several components in your RV’s electrical system that may need to be modified or replaced so that they’re compatible with a lithium battery bank. These include:
Converter/Charger
Older RVs aren’t likely to have a converter/charger compatible with lithium batteries. In the best case, it won’t charge them properly, but in the worst case, it could seriously damage them. Newer RVs are more likely to have a converter/charger that simply requires a setting change. This is sometimes as simple as flipping a switch on the converter/charger itself… but that switch is sometimes hidden somewhere inside the unit and may not be easily accessible.
This Progressive Dynamics 60-Amp Inteli-Power Converter/Charger, for example, will work well with a lithium-ion battery bank:
- Input: 105-130 VAC 60 Hz 1000 Watts / Output: 13.6 VDC – 14.7 VDC, 60 Amps
- Green Light (Flooded Lead Acid Mode) - When charging the battery, the converter will sense voltage on the battery and automatically select the proper...
For more information, see our posts on RV power converters and RV converters vs battery chargers.
Inverter/Charger
The same is true of your RV’s inverter/charger. Older RVs could require completely replacing the inverter/charger, while newer rigs may just need a setting change. This would most likely involve accessing a monitor/control panel and changing the battery type (or charge parameters) there. To become more familiar with the function of an inverter/charger, please see our post entitled, “What Is an RV Inverter?”
This Victron Energy MultiPlus 3000VA 12-Volt Pure Sine Wave Inverter/Charger, also available here from Battle Born Batteries is a great example of an inverter/charger that will work well with your RV’s new lithium batteries:
- VICTRON ENERGY PURE SINE WAVE INVERTER: The Victron Energy Multiplus inverter charger is a compact powerful true sine wave inverter and a...
- POWER ASSIST: With the unique Power Assist feature the MultiPlus solar inverter will prevent overload of a limited AC source, such as a generator or...
Or you could consider this popular model from Xantrex:
- all-in-one solution: functions as a true sine wave inverter with a built-in lithium ion 100 amp (2000w model) / 150 amp (3000w model) battery charger,...
- powerful: industry leading power boost, 2x continuous output for 5 seconds or more for motor loads. the power provided in the freedom xc pro is strong...
Note: The Victron (which is the one we have now in our Outdoors RV trailer) offers the advantage of being a hybrid inverter (meaning it can augment a lower-amperage shore connection, temporarily pulling power from the battery bank to make up the difference… like when running your A/C when moochdocking on a 15-amp connection), while the Xantrex inverter has a higher & longer surge rating to handle power demands like the startup surge required by your air conditioner.
Solar Charge Controller(s)
Once again, an older solar charge controller will need to be replaced, while a newer one may only require a settings change. If you need to replace your solar charge controller, be sure to see our post entitled “How Do You Size a Solar Charge Controller?” to be sure you get one that’s compatible with your solar array.
DC-to DC Charging
When upgrading to lithium batteries, you may also need to consider the DC-to-DC charging from your towing vehicle or your motorhome’s alternator (using a BiRD, a “Bi-directional Relay Delay system, or an Echo Charger).
This 50-amp DC-to-DC charger from Victron is what we’re using to ensure proper charging of our new trailer’s batteries while we’re towing it.
Unless you’re towing your RV with an electric vehicle, it likely has a lead-acid battery, so its charging system (the vehicle’s alternator) is optimized for charging batteries with a lead-acid chemistry. As a result, if the umbilical wiring between the towing vehicle and the RV (trailer, fifth-wheel, or truck camper) is connected to allow 12V power from the towing vehicle to feed the camper’s battery(ies), you’re likely to drain your lithium RV batteries instead of charging them. Here’s why:
Lithium batteries “rest” at a higher voltage than a lead-acid battery does, so your towing vehicle’s alternator may not kick in, allowing the lithium battery to power the loads of the truck, draining it while it’s being towed. To prevent this, you’ll need to do one of the following:
- Disconnect the feed to the battery (probably at the junction box on your trailer/RV) to stop power from being drained (which will also disable any charging of the RV’s batteries)… or…
- Install a diode (here’s one at Amazon: Roadmaster Light Diode that can handle up to 28V and 85 amps) that only allow power to go from the truck to the camper when the truck’s voltage is high enough (which also means the RV battery will only be charging some of the time you’re towing)… or…
- Install a DC-to-DC charger in-line with the feed from the towing vehicle, which will accomplish all of the following:
- Protect the lithium battery(ies) from being drained
- Provide the proper charging profile for the lithium batteries
- Protect the towing vehicle’s alternator from being overworked (note that lithium batteries don’t provide the same resistance to charging that lead acid batteries do, which means that they will accept ALL the current the alternator can produce, which could overwork the alternator and lead to premature failure)
Most motorized RV alternators are also intended to work with lead-acid batteries, so if your motorhome has a system designed to allow the alternator to also charge the house batteries (in addition to charging the chassis/starting battery(ies) for the engine), it could damage itself or the lithium batteries (or both). To deal with this, you’ll either need to disable the system from charging the house batteries from the alternator while driving, OR replace the system with a DC-to-DC charger, as noted above.
If you want to check out other DC-to-DC charger options, look at what Battle Born Batteries offers in their online store. There are a lot of different models with different charging capacities and voltages to meet just about any possible configuration.
Do I Buy the Same Number of Batteries When Switching My RV to Lithium?
No, you may only need half as many lithium batteries to get the same usable power as you have with your lead-acid batteries. This is because lead-acid batteries can only be drained to 50% of their capacity without (significant) harm. Since lithium batteries can be drained completely (or almost completely, depending on the brand) without suffering damage, you may only need half as many lithium batteries to have the same usable power.
The four batteries on the right of this photo are 6V deep cycle flooded lead acid batteries wired together into two pairs to make the bank 12V. These could be replaced with only two 12V lithium batteries that would provide the same amp-hour capacity.
This is also true if your RV has a bank of 6V deep-cycle batteries. In this case, each pair of 6V batteries (which are wired together in series to create one, larger 12V battery) could be replaced with a single 12V lithium battery that likely provides the same amount of useable capacity.
Sizing Your Lithium Battery Bank
Let’s look at several examples of how many lithium batteries you’d need to replace the usable power you have with different configurations of lead-acid batteries.
One 12V 100Ah Lead Acid Battery
Your single 12V 100Ah lead-acid battery only has 50Ah of usable capacity. So, replacing it with a single 100Ah lithium battery will double the storage capacity, giving you a true 100 amp-hours of usable power.
Two 12V 100Ah Lead Acid Batteries Wired in Parallel
Wiring batteries in parallel means the pair operate at the same voltage as a single battery (12V in this case), but you double the storage capacity (i.e. you’d have a total of 200Ah from the 2 x 100Ah batteries). But, since only 50% of the 200Ah of total power from this bank is usable, they really only provide 100Ah of total usable capacity.
In this case, you could replace those two 100Ah lead-acid batteries with just one 100Ah lithium battery and have the same capacity/power as before (and save some weight at the same time). Or, you could replace your two 100Ah lead-acid batteries with two 100Ah lithium batteries and get twice the power storage capacity!
This illustration shows two batteries wired in parallel. Their capacity is doubled while their voltage remains the same.
Four 6V 200Ah Batteries
If you have four 6V (golf cart) 200Ah batteries, they’re only providing a total of 200Ah of usable capacity. That’s because your bank is wired in series-parallel, with 2 x 6V batteries wired in series to increase their combined output voltage from 6 to 12V. The two series pairs of 6V batteries are then wired to each other in parallel to double their capacity to 400Ah. But, because they’re lead-acid, you can only use up to 200Ah without damaging them.
When you wire 4 batteries together in series-parallel, you wire 2 batteries together in series (+ to –), creating a set. You then wire the other 2 batteries together in series (+ to –), creating a second set. Finally, you wire the two series sets of batteries to each other in parallel. (see a video demonstrating this on YouTube)
So, again, you could replace those four 6V golf cart batteries with two 100Ah lithium batteries to have the same amount of power storage capacity (200Ah) with two fewer batteries. Or, you could choose to have double the capacity in the same space (but close to half the weight).
For much more information about wiring batteries, please see our post on wiring batteries in series vs parallel.
Is Switching Your RV to Lithium Batteries Worth It?
We believe it’s worth switching to lithium (LiFePO4) batteries even if changes need to be made to settings or components so the system operates properly. But we’re big boondockers and tend to camp off-grid for extended periods. For us, there are numerous benefits to having lithium batteries… and no real downsides. As always, your mileage may vary depending on your traveling and camping lifestyle.
In our Newmar Mountain Aire motorhome, we switched from a large AGM (lead-acid) battery bank to 600Ah of Xantrex lithium batteries similar to this Xantrex 240Ah battery (our system was an early design, and we were early adopters, so Xantrex’s product range has changed since then):
- Internal BMS - reduces footprint
- Cell Balancing - extends lifetime of battery
In our new 19′ travel trailer from Outdoors RV, we’ve got a fantastic installation of 810Ah of Battle Born LiFePO4 batteries (all installed by MYT Solar near Bend, OR), with a surprising 1,500W of solar, and we’re LOVING it. The freedom to never worry about being plugged in, while still having all the power we need, is priceless.
Our 810Ah of Battle Born lithium batteries installed in the front pass-through storage bay of our travel trailer. We love how clean the installation is, with barely any wiring visible.
If you’re still on the fence about upgrading to lithium batteries, have a look at our post entitled, “Are RV Lithium Batteries Worth It?” Or, if you’re interested in upgrading, check out the lithium battery options from Battle Born and Xantrex:
We've got long-term experience with Xantrex products (our first motorhome came with a Xantrex Freedom 458 Inverter/Charger), and have always had a good experience with them. In our Mountain Aire we've enjoyed many years of boondocking freedom...Show More
We've got long-term experience with Xantrex products (our first motorhome came with a Xantrex Freedom 458 Inverter/Charger), and have always had a good experience with them. In our Mountain Aire we've enjoyed many years of boondocking freedom thanks to our Xantrex lithium battery, solar panels & charge controllers, and pure-sine inverter/charger.
Now, you can save 5% by ordering direct from Xantrex's online store when you use the Promo Code "RVGEEKS"
Watch our video about installing our Xantrex lithium battery
Choose from several Xantrex lithium batteries, accessories, and more (to come!). Shipping to both the US and Canada available!
Show LessAlso, if you’ve made the switch to lithium-ion batteries, feel free to comment below and let us know how you’ve benefited from the upgrade.
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Jim Wijnhamer
Sunday 23rd of November 2025
Great article. Specially with how many batteries, regarding Ah, that I need. I have 2 65Ah lead acid batteries. I have a 2014 Coachmen Concord Class C motorhome. I got most of it figured out before switching. I hardly boondock and plug into shore power the majority of the time, so I really don't need solar. The problem, I have not found a single article or video on how and where to install a DC-to-DC charger for my application. Thank you so much for this article.
Norman M Andrews
Sunday 25th of May 2025
In the article above, which is really good, where you list the battleborn temperature range you say that the same range apply to charging and discharging. Think that needs to be corrected for the more limited charging temperature range. Thanks for the great article
TheRVgeeks
Sunday 25th of May 2025
Thanks, Norman. Info's been updated to reflect the fact that Battle Born Batteries have a BMS that will protect them from CHARGING in cold temperatures and won’t accept a charge once the internal cell temperature drops to 24°F.
Tom
Monday 28th of April 2025
Hi. Good stuff, guys. Having trouble finding an answer to my specific question: Do I mount the DC to DC charger between the tow vehicle (TV) and LiFePO4 battery (LFP), while leaving the AC to DC charger/converter feeding the LFP separately. Or do I run the AC to DC feed thru the DC to DC as well.
Background: I'm thinking of converting to a LFP for our travel trailer (TT). I understand that I will need to swap the AC to DC unit in the TT for one that can handle LFP charging. The manufacturer of the AC to DC unit makes an upgrade for this purpose that works with the battery I plan to install. I also want to add a DC to DCunit to allow the TV to charge the LFP batt, keeping in mind the limits on what amps the alternator and wiring can handle.
Jay
Sunday 25th of May 2025
@Tom, Basically, you can't connect the lithiums to your lead acids because the voltages are higher in the lithiums and they would discharge into the lead acids, overcharging them. You generally don't want to charge the lithiums with your alternator because 1) potential high current draw from the lithiums coils damage the alternator, 2) the lithiums will discharge into the lead acids.
The DC-DC converter is only running when the engine is running. It would be the sole charging source when not plugged in to shore or generator power. It does not work when the engine is not running. You would still use your charger-converter BUT only if it is compatible with lithium batteries, which is unlikely. If you already have solar, it can recharge the lithiums without needing a DC-DC converter at all. Without a battery state-of-charge monitoring system, you won't know when your batteries (any type) are no longer safe to continue their discharging. The Victron BMV-712 is such a highly rated monitor.
Dave from N.Idaho
Friday 28th of March 2025
Your article was very thorough, covering all the considerations for upgrading to LiFePO4 batteries along with the other RV modifications necessary for the upgrade. In 2018 I upgraded our 2016 Alpine 5th wheel with 4 Battleborn lithium batteries, a 1500 watt Go-Power inverter, and a 80amp lithium charger. We recently went to a smaller Fox Mountain 5th wheel and just updated it with 6 Battleborn lithium batteries, a 2000 watt Go-Power inverter, a 80amp lithium charger and a Victron 100amp solar charge controller. In addition to the 200w solar panel on the RV roof, I chose to use (6) Renogy 200w portable solar panels. That allows me to park the RV in the shade and put the solar panels in the sun some distance from the RV. I use the RV shore power cable to plug into the 2000w inverter resulting in powering the entire RV with AC power (the RV battery disconnect needs to be OFF). I boondocks in the Spring and Fall, so air conditioning isn't necessary. I use a Honda 2200 generator to plug into the 80amp lithium charger when there is insufficient sun (the 80amp charger is in addition to the one installed in the RV, I connected this 80amp charger directly to the batteries). So, the RV batteries can be charge from solar or the generator. Again, great article validated by installs I've successfully completed. In the future I would likely use 48volt components (battery, charger/inverter, and a 48v->12v inverter) based on cost and easier installation.
AK Fish
Friday 12th of July 2024
Better be sure to charge your lithium batteries back up ASAP if you FULLY discharge them. Per SUN GOLD POWER LiFePO4 user manual: "Long-term storage after the battery is discharged [I assume fully discharged] WILL cause the BMS to fail to activate under low-voltage conditions.
The battery MUST be charged within 6 days after fully discharged, otherwise the battery needs to be returned to the factory for dismantling and repair. "
This caught my eye at ReLiOn Lithium battery user manual: "Battery compartment and any material within two feet should be noncombustible.
Low quality alternators with poor voltage regulation can cause the BMS to disconnect LiFePO4 batteries. If the BMS disconnects the batteries the alternator may be damaged. To protect your LiFePO4 battery and alternator please be sure to use a compatible high-quality alternator or install a voltage regulator."
In all cases, read your user manual and warranty that comes with your particular lithium battery.
Jay
Sunday 25th of May 2025
@AK Fish, You are absolutely correct. Even after the BMS shuts down the batteries, small current draws persist and can make the lithiums unrechargeable. Lithium-equipped RVs either need to be stored connected to shore power or the batteries need to be disconnected. The problem most commonly occurs when you take your vehicle in for service that takes more than a day and the service center fails to plug in the vehicle. This is common! I consider it negligence on the part of the service, but they will likely claim that you didn't prove that the batteries were fine before. Irreversible damage can also occur to lead acids if left to fully discharge while being left in service.