Full-timers since 2003, we’re a couple of “Do-It-Ourself” RVers sharing tips on RV operation, maintenance, repair, and travel. We’ve handled most of our own RV maintenance over the course of two decades spent exploring North America (and international RVing, too)!
While we’re not RV technicians, we’re very mechanically inclined and have learned a lot about RV systems over the years. We handle most of our own minor service, repair and upgrade work on our 2005 43′ Newmar Mountain Aire diesel pusher. We also maintained our 2002 39′ Fleetwood Bounder Diesel during our first 2 years on the road.
We hope our experiences can help other RVers go DIY, all while saving time & money… and experiencing the satisfaction of a job well done.
We don’t pretend to be experts on any particular RV topic, and mostly know about maintaining our own rig. But lots of things are the same on RVs in general, and diesel pushers in particular. Consult with a professional technician if you’re unsure about working on your RV.
Safe Travels!
– Peter & John
Since 2011, Peter Knize & John Sullivan have co-hosted The RVgeeks, one of YouTube’s most popular channels about RVing. In 2019, they made the big leap to broadcast television as co-hosts and Co-Executive Producers of the new TV series The RVers. Look for John & Peter on The Discovery Channel, PBS, iTunes/AppleTV, Amazon Video, Fun Roads TV, Google Play, the Microsoft Store, and YouTubeTV. The RVers is also available internationally on the Wild Pursuit Network in Canada, and iTunes in English-speaking countries such as Canada, the U.K. and Australia.
Michael Halladay
Sunday 19th of March 2023
I have the hydro flame corp Excalibur 8500-ii series and it started with a really loud squealing noise and kept getting worse throughout the day so I tried to go through everything and cleaning all of the hair and junk out of the furnace to see if it would fix the noise problem so when I turned it back on after cleaning it there was no noise for about 4 or 5 hours roughly then the noise was back and every time it would turn on the noise was progressively getting worse so I tried to balance the blower wheels and see if there was anything noticeable that could be making that sound but didn't see anything that would be making any noise so when I went back into the camper I turned the furnace on and the noise was alot better then before but then I noticed that the furnace was only running for a few minutes but the air was hot when it was running and then would shut off before getting up to temperature so I waited for the furnace to kick back on didn't take long and the furnace was on again and the same thing happened only ran a few minutes and it got hot but shut off premature to the temperature on the thermostat so I turn it off waited a few minutes and turned it on once again but this time the noise was back and then stopped getting warm and now it will not get warm it only blows cold air I need to figure out the problem asap it's winter and only about 15 degrees at night and this is my place of residence plz v help me
TheRVgeeks
Sunday 19th of March 2023
Wow, Michael. Sounds like you've tried a lot. The squealing sounds like it could be the bearings and/or blower motor itself. Depending on how old the unit is, they could need to be replaced. The later behavior of it running for a short time and then turning off sounds like it could be the sail switch... which lets the furnace know that the blower is running and moving enough air to ensure that nothing gets too hot. But it could also be a thermistor in the burner that's not signaling the electronics that the flame is staying lit.
Jeffrey King
Sunday 12th of March 2023
Greetings, I might be off base but I seem to remember an article from you two in the past year or so about 24v based air conditioning units manufactured in Europe. Possibly in Germany. There was several styles, one was a basement unit with venting that could be ducted in a motor coach. Sound familiar? I had the company website on my search engine but lost my history. Thank you, JK
TheRVgeeks
Sunday 19th of March 2023
Sorry, JK... wasn't us. But if you find out who it is, drop us a note. We'd love to check 'em out!
Paul Zoutendam
Friday 10th of March 2023
I read your recent post about 12v refrigerators with interest. You did not cover 12v replacement refrigeration cooling units like those offered by JC Refrigeration. Have you covered them previously? How well do these units work? I also have questions about how much power 12v units use. In particular, for my Norcold absorption frig. the JC Refrigeration replacement draws 7.6 amps. How do I calculate how many amp-hours of battery is needed to run it for 24 hours? When I am plugged into shore power, can it run off my converter. I ask this question because, JC Refrigeration only says the unit will run off battery power or off the alternator. Is there some reason, it cannot run off the converter. I have a 45 amp Progressive Dynamics converter (PD9245-C). Is the DC power not consistent enough to run the compressor (without damaging it)? I enjoy reading many of your posts and look forward to reading many more. Please let me know if you can answer any of my questions.
TheRVgeeks
Sunday 19th of March 2023
Hi Paul... we haven't covered those replacement units before, but they are certainly an option (our friends the Mortons did that on their RV... here's the video: https://youtu.be/Yte1V3CkDrw).
To calculate how big a battery bank you'd need (for your refrigerator and everything else using 12V power on board), you'll have to figure out how much power you use in a 24 hour period. In the case of a 12V compressor-style RV refrigerator, you could take the 7.6-amp power draw and assume that it only needs to run, AT MOST, 50% of the time. So that would be 3.8 amps per hour... or 3.8Ah depleted from your battery every hour (let's round up to 4Ah just for simpler math). Multitply that by 24 hours to get the total power the fridge will need in a day: 4Ah x 24 hours = 96Ah (again, let's round up to 100Ah for simplicity). That would mean you'd need at least a 200Ah of battery capacity if you were using any lead-acid (flooded, AGM, or gel) to ensure you didn't exceed the recommended 50% state of charge so the battery lasts the longest possible.
Of course, your RV has OTHER 12V draws besides the fridge... but assuming 50% cycle time is likely quite high (these fridges are more efficient than that)... so the numbers would be different, but you get the idea.
All that said... your onboard converter should easily be able to supply the necessary power for the fridge and other 12V draws when you're on shore power.
David Fedorko
Wednesday 8th of March 2023
Excellent video on the MicroAir Soft Start for RVs product. Presentation of required tools, product mounting, wire runs and termination are all very easy to understand. Keeping the original startup capacitor in place and system learning process was also well explained. I’ve been looking at this and another product, but after watching this video, will likely pickup a pr. of the MicroAir units. Thank you!
TheRVgeeks
Sunday 19th of March 2023
Glad to hear this was helpful, David! Hope your install goes smoothly... and we know you'll love them once they're in!
John Tall
Tuesday 7th of March 2023
On your article about 12v fridges, one of the cons you state is size. We have a 12v in our camper and it’s 17cuft, which is plenty big enough for a family.
TheRVgeeks
Sunday 19th of March 2023
You're right, they are beginning to catch up in size, John! But when you can get a 21, 24, or even 27 cu. ft residential style fridge... 17 still seems kinda small! 😉 NOT saying most people NEED a fridge that big, but 120V AC residential fridges still have the advantage here.