Painting your RV’s interior can give your rig a fresh new look. But if you intend to do the job yourself, you need some RV-specific tips to get the best results and avoid common mistakes. We’ve previously posted about RV interior paint ideas and thought we should do a follow-up on some common mistakes people tend to make when painting in an RV.
While RVs may be homes-on-wheels, they’re not constructed in the same way that sticks & bricks houses are. So, when you go to paint the interior of an RV, you’re facing some uncommon situations that can impact results, sometimes in some pretty serious ways. In this post, we’ve got some essential tips to keep in mind when you’re planning to tackle this job.
- 1) Clean the Surface of Your RV Interior Well
- 2) Important Tips About Taping
- 3) Never Use Water-Based Primers or Paint on RV Interior Wall Coverings
- 4) Use Separate Primer & Paint Products
- 5) Use Heavy-Nap Rollers When Painting an RV Interior
- 6) How to Handle Unpaintable Silicone Caulk in an RV Interior
- 7) Keep Resale Value in Mind
- 8) Have You Painted the Interior of an RV?
Clean the Surface of Your RV Interior Well
As we noted in our post on RV interior paint ideas, the key to a good interior paint job is PREP. Preparing the surface you’re going to paint is an essential part of painting any home, and this is especially true of painting the interior of an RV. So a few of our tips are part of the vital prep phase, which happens before you ever open a can of paint or primer.
No matter how big your rig may be, generally speaking, an RV is a small space. Which means that cooking grease, moisture from showering, cooking, and just breathing, and lots of dust collect on the surfaces of your RV walls and ceilings. That’s why, before picking up a paintbrush, it’s important to thoroughly clean the surface you’ll be painting with a solution that’s sure to cut through everything, including cooking grease. You may not think it’s there, but it probably is.
As with all projects, proper preparation of the surface before painting is essential to achieving the best results.
When cleaning the interior surfaces of an RV before painting, use a product containing TSP or another effective degreaser to remove the dust & grease that’s accumulated during travel. We’ll include links to a couple of popular pre-paint cleaning products here.
But we also want to note that many people achieve good results using a solution of Dawn dishwashing liquid and warm water. Dawn is well-known for its excellent grease-cutting ability. Just be careful to avoid getting the walls of your RV overly wet. Remember, the walls of your RV are unlikely to be constructed like the walls of your sticks & bricks home (more on that in just a minute).
Here’s a TSP cleaner, specifically designed to prepare surfaces for painting:
No products found.
This one uses a TSP substitute, is very popular, and gets excellent reviews:
- Cleans and etches surface providing excellent adhesion, even on high gloss surfaces
- Removes tough stains like grease, smoke, mildew and dirt; leaving a clean, fresh surface
Important Tips About Taping
We’ve heard complaints from people who paint RV interiors and even home interiors that they prepped really well with quality painter’s tape. After working hard to complete the paint job, the new paint came off with the tape in several areas when they pulled it off. This left them with a lot of touch-up work to do and a lot of frustration as well.
Here are options for frustration-free clean edges:
Don’t Tape at All
That’s right – it’s an option not to tape at all, and some people do this successfully. It’s generally best to tape, but if you have a steady hand and some painting experience, you can use a high-quality edging brush without taping. Just be sure to have a damp cloth in your other hand, as you will encounter errors and need to clean them up immediately as you paint. This option is really best if you’re doing a small project, and it’s not for everyone. But it’s certainly an option for some.
- White & silver CT polyester with chisel trim
- Very soft formulation, feather stroke
Tape Using High-Quality Painter’s Tape
If you do tape, be sure to use a high-quality painter’s tape. It’s well worth the investment. Low-quality painter’s tape or masking tape is never a good idea. You won’t get the results you want, and you may have difficulty removing the tape without leaving residue or torn tape behind. Worse yet, the tape may not cover well, which can leave you with paint on areas you were trying to protect by taking the time to tape in the first place.
Using painter’s tape is one of the best ways to ensure a good result when painting your RV’s interior.
According to many professionals (and our own personal experiences), Frog tape is one of the best choices.
- Advanced PaintBlock Technology: FROGTAPE Multi-Surface Painter's Tape is equipped with innovative PaintBlock Technology, which forms a micro-barrier...
- Versatile Application: This painter's tape is designed for use on multiple surfaces, including painted walls, trim, woodwork, glass, metal, and more.
Remove the Tape While the Paint is Still Wet
This is an important step. You don’t want the paint to dry completely before you remove the tape. If it does, the dried paint can adhere the edge of the tape to the wall, so when you remove it, it can pull some of the new paint off the surface along with it.
Sometimes, particularly when applying multiple coats (such as a coat of primer and 2-3 coats of paint), removing the painter’s tape while the surface is still wet is impractical. If you can’t remove the tape while the paint is still wet, the following solution will be helpful.
Cut Tape Away from Dried Paint
If you’re applying multiple coats and can’t remove the tape while the paint is still wet, carefully run a razor blade along the edge of the tape before removing it. Simply score along the edge after the final coat to cut a line through the dried paint. Then, remove the tape before the last coat dries.
Be careful not to cut through the tape, or you may leave behind a thin line of it, which could pull paint off when removed.
Use a Metal Edger
Some professional painters use edgers (sometimes called paint guards or trim guards) instead of tape. These are generally stainless steel metal strips (some have handles). They typically range from about 12″ to 24″ inches long, but can be shorter or longer, as needed.
To use one, hold the metal edge against the wall, and any overlapping from your paintbrush goes onto the edger/metal strip. They’re easy to clean and give you a clean edge without using tape.
Here’s a 12″ version followed by a 23″ version:
- Painting Trim guard is perfect length and thickness for precision painting around walls, ceilings, windows and trim
- Stainless steel edge is easy to clean and more durable
- The product is 23" Straight Edge Tool
- Easy to use
In case it’s unclear how one would go about using this type of paint/trim guard, here’s a quick video showing the process:
Never Use Water-Based Primers or Paint on RV Interior Wall Coverings
Do not use water-based primers or paint on any wall covering. Here’s why:
The substrate of an RV wall is frequently 1/4″ luan plywood or something similar. The adhesives used to hold wallpaper to the substrate can be easily reactivated by water in primer or paint, which can break the bond that holds the wallpaper to the substrate. That can leave you with a real mess that can turn your RV interior painting project into a nightmare involving the removal of every bit of wall covering and adhesive right down to the substrate. Oil-based paints are recommended.
Once you’ve cleaned and primed the surface with a high-quality primer, any high-grade latex paint (Sherwin-Williams, Behr, Benjamin Moore) should work well for RV renovating. You may have a favorite brand that you consider the best paint for RV interior renovations.
Here are the most important things to keep in mind when you’re painting RV walls or cabinets:
- Prep work is job one! Wood filler, cleaning, priming, and taping take time. Don’t cut corners here.
- Choose your paint colors carefully. Renovating an RV can be fun, but you could be disappointed if you get carried away with the wrong colors.
- Keep in mind that an RV is a small space, and you’ll be closely surrounded by those walls whenever you’re inside the rig. Remember, if you decide to sell or trade your RV in the future, purple isn’t everyone’s favorite color! (Yes, resale value is important… more on that below.)
Use Separate Primer & Paint Products
We know… it’s easier to use a combination primer + paint. While these may be/seem more convenient, it’s highly recommended to use separate primer and finish products when painting the interior of an RV. Although it’s possible to get away with all-in-one products, durability won’t be as good as when you use a separate primer and paint. KILZ Odorless Oil-Based Primer is a great primer for RV interiors.
Use Heavy-Nap Rollers When Painting an RV Interior
Don’t make the mistake of using a foam roller for painting an RV interior. Rough/textured surfaces require a good, heavy-nap roller. A 3/8″ nap should suffice for smooth surfaces like ceilings, but if your RV walls have textured surfaces, you may want to go with a 1/2″ nap.
It can also help to lightly sand the walls and other surfaces, but be aware that sanding can create a lot of unwanted dust in an RV, so light sanding is best (and remember to follow up by washing the walls again to remove all the dust).
- PURDY PAINT ROLLER COVERS – Purdy WhiteDove roller covers provides a smooth, lint-free finish. Handcrafted in the USA, this Purdy roller paint cover...
- FOR LATEX & OIL-BASED PAINTS – From semi-smooth to semi-rough surfaces, use this paint applicator with latex and oil-based paints, primers, stains...
How to Handle Unpaintable Silicone Caulk in an RV Interior
Many RV manufacturers use silicone caulk for good water resistance and because it’s clear and durable. However, silicone is UNPAINTABLE (we’re using all caps here because that’s how unpaintable it is – completely unpaintable). We’ve seen RVers attempt to paint over silicone caulk only to be so frustrated that they ended up spending hours removing all of the silicone caulk throughout the area where they were painting. Don’t do that.
There are a couple of ways to deal with unpaintable silicone caulk.
- Try covering the caulk with an oil-based primer. While we haven’t done this ourselves, we’ve heard that a good quality oil-based primer (like the one we linked to above) will adhere to silicone. If it does, you can let it dry and then paint over it.
- The second option is to use a paintable latex caulk over the silicone caulk. Then you should be able to paint over that new layer. Dap Alex Plus painter’s caulk is one of the best products for this. It contains a percentage of silicone but is still paintable.
No products found.
Pro Tip: After running your bead of caulk, use a wet finger to smooth it out.
PRO Pro Tip: Wear a disposable nitrile glove when smoothing the caulk. Your hands will thank us. Also, keep a damp cloth or rag with you as you work. You’ll need it!
Keep Resale Value in Mind
Be aware that resale and trade-in value will likely be impacted when you paint the interior of an RV. If you’re considering painting the drab, faded interior of a 20-year-old RV, it may improve the look (and thus, positively impact the value), but it does depend on how well the paint job is done and what colors you use.
However, if you have a relatively new RV and don’t like the dark tones that RV manufacturers often use, be aware that the resale/trade-in value is likely to be negatively impacted by painting walls and cabinets. Resale values for RVs that have been altered, including interior painting, are generally lower than those with original interiors. That’s because potential buyers can be concerned about how well the paint job will hold up over time and travel, and may wonder why it was even necessary in a newer rig (i.e. is it hiding damage?).
We read a piece from a longtime RV salesperson who noted that when they sold used rigs on their lot, the ones that were altered, including interior painting, were more likely to go to auction because they didn’t sell on the lot. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t do it. It just means you should be aware that this may be a consequence, which you’ll want to weigh it as you decide whether to paint your RV’s interior… and what color.
Have You Painted the Interior of an RV?
If you have experience painting the interior of an RV, we’d love to hear about it. Leave a comment below letting us know what worked, what didn’t, and how the paint job has held up over time.
Free RVing Tips, Tricks, Reviews & Giveaways
As 20-year full-timers, we share everything we’ve learned about RVing over the years. Join our online community to receive a wealth of great RVing knowledge delivered daily to your inbox.
Whether you’re a new RVer or a seasoned full-timer, you’ll love the wide range of RVing topics we cover. Don’t miss a single article or any of our famous Giveaways. Subscribe to our newsletter today!
Jay
Tuesday 5th of August 2025
It is the rare RV whose interior is kept at room temperature. The materials and coatings need to be able to tolerate temperatures ranging from below freezing to over 100°. As a non-professional, I don't possess the required knowledge or skills to do all of this.
Even touch-ups can be difficult. The repair needs to be unobvious or there's no point in doing the repair. Over rough surfaces, like wallpaper, painters tape and edgers won't work well. The paint will get pulled under the edger or tape by capillary action. You won't see that until the tape is removed or the edger lifted off. Using a roller produces radial splatter. Using a brush produces brush marks. Spraying will give you the most uniform results but requires totally masking everything that is not to be sprayed and, of course, you need significant respiratory protection.
My hobby is woodworking. Refinishing wooden cabinets looks deceptively easy. The resins in the wood can bleed through, especially with oak, and the final result can look terrible. Your best results there will be re-staining and refinishing. The finished African Mahogany looks great in our coach. The factory just used a sealer over it - no stain or varnish.
There are entire books written on wood finishing. Very basically, finishes (varnish) are best applied on horizontal surfaces to avoid drips. Your choices are shellac, so-called water-based polyurethane (which is acrylic), oil-based polyurethane and lacquer.
Lacquer dries so fast that it can dry before it adheres smoothly and uniformly to the surface. Nothing warmer than room temperature is required. It is toxic to apply and it's the most intolerant of temperature and humidity changes (it "crazes" like cracked glass). The brushed on lacquers generally don't apply well. Deft never totally dried.
Polyurethane is the most durable, but dries the slowest with drips that can be difficult to remove. The best results are when polyurethane is thinned with genuine mineral oil and sprayed.
Acrylic is not as durable, dries quickly and is intolerant of any substances containing alcohols and melts when contacting hot objects. Therefore, it is not good to use it on table tops. It is the easiest to apply because of its surface tension and can be sprayed using just water to thin it.
Shellac is inexpensive, easy to apply and repair, dries quickly, but wears poorly and is dissolved by alcohol. It is best used on engineered wood products like MDF where shellac can protect their surfaces from water damage. It can be directly sprayed.
Polyurethane can be applied on top of acrylic, which can be applied on top of shellac. Lacquer can be applied on top of shellac but not acrylic or polyurethane. Furniture polishes, like Pledge, contain silicones that will make it extremely difficult to apply any finishes to them. The contaminated silicones can be impossible to totally remove. Dust contamination while the varnish is drying is an issue, especially with polyurethane, which dries the slowest. Dust nibs on flat surfaces can be (carefully) shaved off using a single edge razor blade.
While cabinet doors can be removed, the cabinets themselves should not be be removed because they usually attach to the walls and interior frame. Their proper reattachments are absolutely critical if they can be removed at all.
For of the above reasons, you should be discouraged from refinishing anything other than very minor surface damage. If it doesn't get done professionally, it will probably look like it.
Paul Marentette
Tuesday 5th of August 2025
I recently refinished the original (but previously painted) interior walls and ceiling in our 1979 Airstream. I believe the ultimate project goal is best adhesion. Sure you can brighten up a drab interior but if the paint doesn't stick, it's going to look worse than if you'd just left alone.
If the surface has never been painted, you might be best to leave it as such. Just make it clean and improve with decorative accents like easily removable decals. If you're ever planning on selling, stay clear of themes. Flowers, bears or Harley-Davidson logos may be your thing, but they're not everyone's "cuppa."
Now, if the surface is damaged or was already painted, you must scrape and sand or you're just slapping a coat over loose paint. Remember the adhesion of even the best new paint is limited to what's under it. This is where prep can be 90% of the job, but 99% of satisfaction in the results.
I disagree with using oil based primer and/or paint. That was true in the past and you RV Geeks make a good point about water potentially swelling often inferior materials in many RVs but dealing with the VOC's trapped in an enclosed RV both during and after application just isn't worth it, or necessary. I found Benjamin Moore's FRESH START primer to be amazing. Incredible hide, adhesion and leveling with no smell. I top-coated with BM's Scuff-X pearl. This combination is not only remarkably durable and scratch resistant but lays down smooth for a consistent sheen and finish, critically important with RV's long surfaces and many directions of light that otherwise expose inconsistencies.
Spraying, not rolling can be the best application method, specially for those like us with an Airstream and painting many curved and compound surfaces. Unlike a house where you would seldom walk right up to a wall close enough to notice, in an RV you're often just inches away from where lap lines and brush strokes are right in your face. I purchased an inexpensive Graco 360 Cordless sprayer that simply attaches to the cordless drill or impact gun you already own. It sprays in any direction, even upside down and is easily controlled. Small and maneuverable in tight spaces as it draws from it's own cannister, not a pickup hose like other sprayers. Sure, you'll lose time masking and wrapping surfaces but you'll more than make that time back up in application speed. I did the full interior of our 31 foot Airstream in 40 minutes.
Final advice is to resist the urge to go too thick in paint or bold in color or style. At one time in the 80's someone painted the inner front cap, walls and ceiling of our vintage Airstream a very dark Aubergine (purple/eggplant,) a loud statement that might have been fine back in the day but would turn off most today. In the 90's it was sponged over in less dynamic tones, but this built up layers of paint that we ended up sanding right down, which meant new rivets as well. Think of the next person, what they're going to have to live with, and likely someday remove.
Walt G.
Tuesday 6th of August 2024
Funny thing… if you go directly to Amazon and not by clicking on the link in this article the Frog tape is 50 cents cheaper. Also the tape is the same price at Home Depot and if you are a veteran you get 10 % off at HD and Lowe’s. .
TheRVgeeks
Tuesday 6th of August 2024
Hi Walt. We’re eager to provide the most accurate information and best deals, so we appreciate your keeping us on our toes. Not sure what might be happening on your end (though it's likely just a delay in our system pulling the latest pricing from Amazon... if you clicked through from our site, you'd have gotten the same price listed directly), but we just did a spot check of Frog Tape pricing, and the listings are the same, regardless of how we accessed them. We also spot checked Home Depot and Lowe’s and Amazon beats their pricing on each one we checked. Amazon assures that there is zero added cost for purchases made through affiliate links, and we’ve never seen any I indication that that’s not true.
Ray Davis
Tuesday 6th of August 2024
@Walt G., The two Authors consistantly produce well thought out, cogent articles with a time & research investment that is so well appreciated by the Rv community.